Training for the New Alpinism

A Manual for the Climber as Athlete

By: Steve House, Scott Johnston, Mark Twight - foreword

Narrated by: Roger Wayne

In Training for the New Alpinism, Steve House, world-class climber and Patagonia ambassador, and Scott Johnston, coach of US national champions and World Cup Nordic skiers, translate training theory into practice to allow you to coach yourself to any mountaineering goal. Applying training practices from other endurance sports, House and Johnston demonstrate that following a carefully designed regimen is as effective for alpinism as it is for any other endurance sport and leads to better performance. They deliver detailed instruction on how to plan and execute training tailored to your individual circumstances.

Whether you work as a banker or a mountain guide, live in the city or the country, are an ice climber, a mountaineer heading to Denali, or a veteran of 8,000-meter peaks, your understanding of how to achieve your goals grows exponentially as you work with this audiobook. Chapters cover endurance and strength-training theory and methodology, application, and planning, nutrition, altitude, mental fitness, and assessing your goals and your strengths.

Chapters are augmented with inspiring essays by world-renowned climbers, including Ueli Steck, Mark Twight, Peter Habeler, Voytek Kurtyka, and Will Gadd.

PLEASE NOTE: When you purchase this title, the accompanying PDF will be available in your Audible Library along with the audio.

©2014 Patagonia Books (P)2019 Tantor

Great book

I’ll certainly buy the paper version of this book as a reference. The only issue I have with this audiobook is the awkward imperial and metric elevation citation for every single peak mentioned, and there are many... it definitely interrupts the flow. Maybe just pick one unit and stick with that.

The Bible of alpinism

The authors did a great job, bouncing between technical descriptions of training regimens and the logic behind them, and climbing stories, with lots of guest essays. I learned a lot and tended to agree with the opinions shared.
The narrator isn’t a climber which caused a number of confusing/amusing mispronunciations (“five point one three” for 5.13, “W-sixteen” for WI6, “Colon” Haley).

Horrible Reader Choice

This book has good information but the way in which it is read makes it so unenjoyable I can’t even finish it. Just buy the book and read it yourself.

absolutely worth the listen

This was a really great book for someone like me that has never been trained by a coach, or had a real scientific training plan.

Superb for athletes of all sports

This book was recommended to me years ago and I’m kicking myself for not having read it back then. I am not either an alpinist nor do I have any interest in mountains, but this book need not be only for people with Eiger dreams. Any endurance athlete can benefit from what it discusses in terms of physiology, psychology, and preparation. I may even pick up a used paper copy of the book so that I can use it as a reference, it is so dense and comprehensive that it requires more than one read. Thank you to the authors and I highly recommend this book.