If your shoulder still hurts no matter how much rehab you’ve done, this episode is for you. We’re digging into why traditional shoulder rehab fails climbers, what the latest shoulder pain research actually says, and how to build a better plan that gets you back to the wall stronger and more confident.

In this episode, I cover:

• Why most shoulder rehab for climbers is under-dosed and not climbing-specific

• What the research says about pain during rehab and when it’s okay to keep training

• Why posture correction, scapular mechanics, and banded exercises aren’t the full solution

• The truth about MRI findings, rotator cuff tears, and what pain really means

• How I structure climbing-specific shoulder rehab programs, including movement patterns, isolation work, and load progression

Whether you’ve been told you have shoulder impingement, rotator cuff tendinopathy, or just feel like your shoulder isn’t keeping up with your climbing — this episode will help you understand why, and what to do next.

Ready for a plan that’s actually built for climbers?
Book a 1:1 consultation or join the 8-week Shoulder Reset Program to rebuild a stronger, more resilient shoulder.

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In this episode, I unpack why traditional shoulder rehab often fails climbers — and how to rethink the entire approach. Using guided reasoning and evidence from leading studies, we challenge the most common myths about shoulder pain and rotator cuff injuries.

You’ll learn:

🔹 Why rest and avoidance aren’t the answer
We explore why rest often leads to temporary relief but long-term setbacks — and how graded loading is the true medicine for shoulder pain.

🔹 The problem with “banded exercises forever”
Progressive overload matters. We break down what kind of exercise actually works — and what the latest research says about exercise.

🔹 How to train through pain — safely and effectively
We dig into the Smith et al. meta-analysis showing that tolerable pain during rehab isn’t harmful — and may even improve outcomes when managed correctly.

🔹 Why surgery isn't the gold standard — and might not be necessary at all
We review landmark studies showing that:

• Pain does not correlate with tear size (Dunn et al.)

• Most small-to-medium rotator cuff tears can be rehabbed without surgery (Moosmayer et al., Kukkonen et al., Karjalainen et al.)

• Even full-thickness traumatic tears respond well to rehab (Boorman et al., Kuhn et al.)

• Failed surgical repairs don’t always lead to worse outcomes (Holtedahl et al.)

• Sham surgeries work just as well as real ones (Paavola et al., Schroder et al.)

🔹 What effective rehab actually looks like for climbers
We close the episode by showing what real rehab should include: climbing-specific loading, total-body strength, education around pain, and a progressive plan that actually builds capacity instead of avoiding discomfort.

This episode is packed with practical insights and paradigm-shifting takeaways that will help you — or your clients — stop spinning their wheels and start seeing real progress.

🎧 Hit play now and find out why your shoulder rehab hasn’t been working — and what to do instead.

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In this episode, we dive into the complexities of shoulder pain and pathology, particularly in the context of climbing. Natasha explores how MRI findings often reveal abnormalities that may not correlate with pain or dysfunction, challenging the conventional wisdom that structural changes always indicate a problem. Through insights from studies on elite climbers, Natasha reframes the narrative around shoulder health, emphasizing the importance of function over imaging. Discover how to build stronger, more resilient shoulders and why your MRI might not tell the whole story. Tune in to learn when imaging is truly necessary and how to focus on what really matters for your shoulder health.

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Join us as we delve into the topic of shoulder pain among climbers. In this episode, Natasha shares insights on the prevalence of shoulder injuries, the impact on climbers' lives, and the surprising statistics that reveal just how common these issues are. Discover personal stories and what the science has to say about why these injuries happen.

Key Topics:

• The anatomy of the shoulder and its role in climbing
• Common shoulder injuries and their high prevalence among climbers
• Personal experiences and stories from dealing with shoulder pain
• The impact of shoulder pain on daily life and climbing performance
• Debunking common myths climbers are told about why the have shoulder pain
• Diving into some climbing specific research on shoulder pain, posture and scapular dyskinesis

#Climbing #ShoulderPain #InjuryPrevention

If you found this episode helpful, please share it with fellow climbers who might benefit from these insights. Don't forget to subscribe for more episodes on climbing health and performance. Stay tuned for PART II!

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In this episode Natasha emphasizes the significance of consistency in training, discussing how it leads to long-term progress. She addresses common mental barriers like black and white thinking, encourages the creation of a minimum viable training plan, and highlights the importance of discipline over motivation. She also explains that progress is not linear and that fluctuations in performance are normal. She provides strategies for maintaining flexibility in training plans and adapting to life's challenges while staying committed to training goals.

Chapters

00:00 The Importance of Consistency in Training

03:06 Overcoming Black and White Thinking

04:53 Creating a Minimum Viable Training Plan

07:21 Discipline Over Motivation

10:01 Flexibility in Training Plans

12:15 Understanding Non-Linear Progress

15:19 The Role of Volume in Training

18:30 Embracing Fluctuations in Performance

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Today I’m pulling back the curtain on what the Foundational Strength Training Program actually is.

Because if you’ve ever looked at it and thought, “Eh, I could just get a program like this on ChatGPT or in a climbing training book” you are exactly who this episode is for.

Summary

In this episode, I’m diving into what the Foundational Strength Program (FSP) is really all about. This isn’t just a list of exercises, it’s a full support system designed to help climbers stay consistent with strength training all year long. I talk about why flexibility, coaching, and community are key to making real progress, and I walk you through everything that’s included in the program, from seasonal tracks and time-crunch options to workshops, pain and injury guidance, and free form checks in our private Discord. I also share who this program is designed for, who it’s probably not a great fit for, and why that clarity matters when you’re thinking about your long-term goals as a climber.

Takeaways

• The FSP is designed as a full support system for climbers.
• Many online programs fail to adapt to real-life situations.
• Strength training benefits not only climbing performance but also overall health.
• The FSP includes 15 different training programs for various needs.
• Community support is crucial for maintaining motivation and consistency.
• Workshops in the FSP help climbers become more independent in their training.
• Goal setting and planning are essential for long-term success.
• The program is not for those seeking quick fixes or handholding.
• Life's unpredictability requires a flexible training approach.

Chapters

00:00 Introduction to the Foundational Strength Program

02:50 The Importance of Real-Life Flexibility in Training

06:06 Comprehensive Support and Resources in the FSP

08:58 Understanding Who the FSP is For

11:50 Enrollment and Community Support in the FSP

15:04 Conclusion and Call to Action

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strength training, climbing, FSP, coaching, injury prevention, fitness program, auto-regulation, community support, goal setting, training flexibility

Takeaways from the episode:

• Strength training is essential for climbers.
• Feeling wiped out after lifting indicates a need for capacity building.
• General physical preparedness (GPP) is crucial for handling both climbing and lifting.
• Recovery involves sleep, nutrition, and proper training volume.
• Climbers should not jump into high-volume strength programs too quickly.
• Off-season training is vital for long-term climbing success.
• Planning your training year is important for maintaining performance.
• You can still climb while focusing on strength training.
• Nutrition plays a key role in recovery and performance.
• Strength training should complement climbing, not compete with it.

Summary:

In this episode of the Strong AF Climbing Podcast, Natasha discusses the importance of strength training for climbers and addresses common misconceptions about its impact on climbing performance. She emphasizes that if strength training consistently leaves climbers feeling sore or fatigued, it may indicate a lack of capacity or recovery rather than a flaw in the training itself. Natasha outlines the importance of building general physical preparedness (GPP), ensuring adequate recovery through sleep and nutrition, and the necessity of planning off-seasons for long-term success in climbing. She encourages climbers to adopt a balanced approach to training that supports their climbing goals without overwhelming their bodies.

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In this episode, Natasha discusses the common reasons why training plans fail and offers practical strategies to create more realistic and flexible training schedules.

She emphasizes the importance of mindset shifts, the concept of a 'minimum viable week', and how to adapt plans to fit real-life challenges. The conversation highlights the need for consistency over perfection and provides insights into building sustainable training habits for climbers.

Takeaways

• Most training plans fail because they are idealistic rather than realistic.
• Flexibility in training plans is crucial for consistency.
• Missing a session does not equate to failure; it's part of the process.
• Reframing setbacks can help maintain motivation and progress.
• Mental contrasting helps visualize both goals and obstacles.
• A minimum viable week allows for training even during chaotic times.
• Building a plan that accounts for real-life challenges is essential.
• Consistency is more important than perfection in training.
• Having a backup plan can prevent burnout and frustration.
• Training should be adaptable to fit individual lifestyles and commitments.

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