27. Muscle Imbalances in Climbers: What’s Normal, What Isn’t, and What Actually Matters

This episode breaks down the truth about muscle imbalances and asymmetry in athletes. Natasha and Ryan explore why asymmetry is normal, why it often gets blamed for injuries without evidence, and why strength training and load tolerance matter far more than chasing perfect symmetry. They walk through current research, explain how injuries change asymmetry rather than the other way around, and discuss why the best rehab focuses on building strength, restoring confidence, and exposing the body to sport-specific loads instead of “fixing imbalances.”

TAKEAWAYS:

• Research consistently shows that asymmetries increase after injury, not usually before.
• Small side-to-side differences are normal in climbers and most athletes.
• Asymmetry rarely predicts injury on its own.
• Chasing perfect symmetry distracts from the real rehab goal: restoring load tolerance.
• Training at a challenging but tolerable intensity often reduces perceived imbalances.
• Most “imbalances” resolve as strength and confidence return.
• Regular exposure to climbing-specific forces matters more than corrective exercises.
• Functional strength and movement quality are better benchmarks than symmetry numbers.
• Pain, deconditioning, and fear can create the sensation of imbalance.
• You are not broken for feeling uneven. It’s a normal adaptation to training or injury.

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