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Deluxe
- How Luxury Lost Its Luster
- Narrated by: Dana Thomas
- Length: 13 hrs and 51 mins
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Publisher's Summary
Once luxury was available only to the rarefied and aristocratic world of old money and royalty. It offered a history of tradition, superior quality, and a pampered buying experience. Today, however, luxury is simply a product packaged and sold by multibillion-dollar global corporations focused on growth, visibility, brand awareness, advertising, and, above all, profits.
Award-winning journalist Dana Thomas digs deep into the dark side of the luxury industry to uncover all the secrets that Prada, Gucci, and Burberry don’t want us to know. Deluxe is an uncompromising look behind the glossy façade that will enthrall anyone interested in fashion, finance, or culture.
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- lorrrraaaaine
- 01-23-22
If buying luxury, go Richemont or Kering not LV MH
This is the singularly MOST important book about the luxury fashion industry ever written period. Although released in 2008, it is very much current other than the fact Colette the multi-brand French luxury retailer disappeared, along with similar retailers like Barney’s, Jeffrey & Louis of Boston to name a few, since it was written. There are many perturbing reasons for the closures & it’s a genuine loss & I will refrain from opining at great length, but if you read this masterwork written by Dana Thomas, & study the history you can probably figure out how we got here.
Multi-brand luxury boutiques act like IRL magazine editors in dictating individual editorial viewpoints & giving designers big & small a platform. The loss of these specialized retailers squelches innovation & business. The fashion industry, the part charged with making clothing specifically, is a giant mess. One of the avant-garde multi-brand luxury owners I worked for, for a very short minute, said something I’m still cogitating decades later. She claimed that runway designers had only 1 or at most 2 designs each collection deemed to be truly great, which through decades of observation appears to be a true proclamation.
Being a fashion designer is a thankless job which is why I assume Ann Demuelemeester, Helmut Lang & Martin Margiela quit in order to pursuit creating art instead. I am in awe of Dolce&Gabbana, DVN, Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo & Armani for still standing. Even Gaultier, my absolute all time favorite, has thrown in the towel on ready-to-wear because the pace is too frenetic. It’s 2022, not 1992 & things have changed but the fashion system hasn’t kept up. The entire thing is absurd.
Tbh, this book isn’t just for fashion people, although it will be much easier to understand the minutiae if you are familiar with the designers & retailers mentioned. For example, if you aren’t familiar with Helmut Newton & haven’t seen the 1977 editorial fashion spread, it would be difficult to understand the impact it had on reviving Hermes. Deluxe is very multi-layered in this way. Not mentioned in this book, but Dolce & Gabbana started out by showing their collection out of their home according to friends who bought one of their first collections for their boutique. It’s really the specialized “boutiques” that first discovered the new designers only to be later poached by the big department stores. The industry of yesteryear has endless interesting stories & Deluxe features many fun ones. Not sure which client told me this as I’ve never worked for Ralph Lauren, but this book was supposedly required reading for everyone who worked for Lauren. I’m assuming it was the executives & perhaps the designers as it would be the most relevant to them?
Anybody who is interested in economics, business, retail of any kind, design history, Hollywood, sociology or enjoyed Peter S. Goodman’s Davos Man will find this book worthwhile. Although quite frankly I think everybody should read or listen to it as it is a gem.
I am not going to write a scathing opinion about the world’s 2nd richest man, but as someone who fell in love with fashion design first by way of Hubert de Givenchy & Christian Dior, the story of the hostile takeovers contained in these pages…. infuriating & despicable. Dana Thomas already so bravely wrote all you need to know, & she & other what I am going to call “avant-garde” journalists who speak truth to power are my heroes. Supporting their work is essential as they are the people with the real balls.
Raf Simons & Riccardo Tisci, 2 of my favorite newer, current & still working designers, being no longer employed under that rat’s umbrella brings a bit of joy. Vodka, cognac & champagne are terrible for the kidneys, liver & heart regardless of any perceived premium quality. Monogram logo patterns are tacky & 2 academic books for further reading on the meaning of such types of “luxury” items & why people buy them can be found in Grant McCracken’s “Culture & Consumption” & Pierre Bourdieu’s tome “Distinction”. Times are still a changing…
It’s fascinating to look at the difference in the brand portfolios between Richemont & LVMH & Dana Thomas explains all. Story of Miuccia Prada which I had forgotten, was also quite intriguing. Rumor had it in the early 2000’s she was taking vintage dresses & directly copying their pattern blocks & I don’t know if it’s actually true, but based on the styles released at the time & her lack of formal design training, it’s quite possible! According to my purchase history I read this first in 2011 pre-Audible, & loved it so much I purchased 3 more to give as gifts.
Second time around I am listening to it, & somehow it is more shocking to hear than read.
If you’re going to buy luxury, Richemont companies would get my first vote, with Kering brands my begrudging second. There are also still mostly independent luxury clothing companies that exist out there such as Rick Owens, Tom Ford, Paul Smith, Dolce & Gabbana, Kiton, Louboutin & Dries Van Noten.
For fragrance I would have in the past recommended Creed, but after a quick search come to see that the 260 year family owned company was acquired by Blackrock in 2020, so I expect the quality will degrade after they put their cost cutting measures in place. Quite frankly I’m also not convinced the chemicals in perfume aren’t harmful for you so I had already been dis-engaging from my love of it. (Luxury & drugstore skincare brands, including shaving creams, look at the chemicals it contains & research the impact on hormones as daily habits contribute to health. Laundry detergents too. And dry cleaning chemicals are the worst of all, proven to be cancer causing & are also very harsh on your clothes, shortening the lifespan. (There are alternatives & dry clean only labels are there merely to prevent liability. I have put countless designer dresses & cashmere in the wash but don’t wash tailored wool jackets or coats & never ever use the dryer unless it’s cotton jersey.)
Ugh. Davos man hits again. If you want to vote with your dollar, be a more informed consumer & understand how monopolies are silently being built around us everyday, definitely read this book along with Davos Man.
3 people found this helpful
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- andrewlb
- 06-09-21
Great books, terrible narration
The book is interesting and has a good mix of history and argumentation, but the narration is genuinely terrible. Kudos to Dana for narrating her own book, but there are random gaps in the narration that break up sentences in a jarring way that distracts from the content. Editors/producers should have picked this up.
2 people found this helpful
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- LDJ
- 09-29-20
Wow!!
Great read! Voice over was good, but mostly the book is entertaining and informative. if you are in the fashion industry in any form, this is must read.
1 person found this helpful
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- Jake
- 01-24-23
High and low quality in the fashion industry
This book specifically has to do with the fashion industry, and if that is at all an interest to you, I would recommend this book. It is a history of why things have changed, for which she ultimately attributes to finances. What is specifically absent is information regarding luxury goods outside of fashion, although one can assume the examples the author gives can be extrapolated to a wide variety of goods. It would have also been nice to have consulted an economist, or financial expert to include their opinion on the topic.
Where the book struggles is the narration...anytime an author narrates their own book this is a red flag, and for good reason. Outside of autobiography's I almost wish Audible would ban authors from doing this. It would be akin to an author of a novel who has no acting experience demanding that they play the lead role in a movie adaption of their book instead of an A-list celebrity. Simply put, as an author you can't outperform a professional voice actor. Let them do what they're good at (voice acting), and you do what you're good at (writing the book). As for specifics, there are long gaps inbetween sentences that detract from the listening experience and break the immersion. If you try to increase the playback speed, she is hard to understand because it's not her rate of speech that is slow.
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- E. troupe
- 02-17-22
good Read
An enlightening read, a lot of insight in history of some the popular top luxury brands.
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- Bennett
- 01-10-22
Fascinating look at the history of luxury brands
This book is not really up to date (I’m writing this in 2022), but it doesn’t really suffer for that, as the meat of it is the history and changes over time of various brands, the people who created and sold (and sold out), and the people who purchased and used (and stole and counterfeited)-all the big names and heavy hitters in the luxury business. Thomas is a good writer and I actually enjoyed it more as an audiobook than when I read it several years ago.
Thomas has a very pleasant, low voice and (to my untutored ear) does very well with the abundance of non-English names and words. There is an occasional…hesitation? in the reading, a pause here and there that’s just the teeniest bit too long, but it’s not really frequent and didn’t impact my enjoyment of the book.
All in all I highly recommend!
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- Crisitna Tunon
- 10-08-21
Super interesting
This audio book was so very interesting and informative. It’s a little dated being from the early 2000s, but the general themes still apply. The narrator was painful - I’ve never used the speed up function before…even with it being at 1.1 some things were still painfully slow. She just did weird fandoms pauses..and for whatever reason could province all the names perfectly in French, but the Italian was rough sometimes. All in all, especially if you can move past the narrator, it’s totally worth it.
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Overall
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Performance
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Story
In Fashionopolis, Thomas sees renewal in a host of developments, including printing 3-D clothes, clean denim processing, smart manufacturing, hyperlocalism, fabric recycling - even lab-grown materials. From small-town makers and Silicon Valley whizzes to such household names as Stella McCartney, Levi’s, and Rent the Runway, Thomas highlights the companies big and small that are leading the crusade.
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Very informative and optimistic
- By cannonwall on 01-05-20
By: Dana Thomas
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The Beautiful Fall
- Fashion, Genius, and Glorious Excess in 1970s Paris
- By: Alicia Drake
- Narrated by: Bernadette Dunne
- Length: 16 hrs and 19 mins
- Unabridged
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Overall
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Performance
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Story
In the 1970s, Paris fashion exploded like a champagne bottle left out in the sun. Amid sequins and longing, celebrities and aspirants flocked to the heart of chic, and Paris became a hothouse of revelry, intrigue, and searing ambition. At the center of it all were fashion’s most beloved luminaries - Yves Saint Laurent, the reclusive enfant terrible, and Karl Lagerfeld, the flamboyant freelancer with a talent for reinvention - and they divided Paris into two fabulous halves.
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Fun and immersive -- despite the narrator
- By SBG on 01-10-21
By: Alicia Drake
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The Gold Standard
- Giving Your Customers What They Didn't Know They Wanted
- By: Colin Cowie
- Narrated by: Colin Cowie
- Length: 5 hrs and 47 mins
- Unabridged
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Overall
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Performance
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Story
Learn how to cultivate the most incredible customer experiences on earth through this essential guide by Colin Cowie, distinguished purveyor of unforgettable “wow” events for the world’s most demanding clients.
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Legendary advice
- By Bryce McNabb on 10-20-22
By: Colin Cowie
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The Chiffon Trenches
- A Memoir
- By: André Leon Talley
- Narrated by: André Leon Talley
- Length: 9 hrs and 38 mins
- Unabridged
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Overall
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Performance
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Story
The Chiffon Trenches offers a candid look at the who’s who of the last 50 years of fashion. At once ruthless and empathetic, this engaging memoir tells with raw honesty the story of how André not only survived the brutal style landscape but thrived - despite racism, illicit rumors, and all the other challenges of this notoriously cutthroat industry - to become one of the most renowned voices and faces in fashion.
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Another case of author's narration not working.
- By CB on 05-21-20
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The Art of Selling to the Affluent
- How to Attract, Service, and Retain Wealthy Customers and Clients for Life, 2nd Edition
- By: Matt Oechsli
- Narrated by: Joe Bronzi
- Length: 6 hrs and 19 mins
- Unabridged
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Overall
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Performance
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Story
The Art of Selling to the Affluent, 2nd Edition offers a detailed landscape of today's affluent. Put yourself ahead of the competition by knowing how the recession has affected purchasing behavior and where the opportunities are moving forward.
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Keeper
- By Anonymous User on 10-13-22
By: Matt Oechsli
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Selling Luxury
- Connect with Affluent Customers, Create Unique Experiences Through Impeccable Service, and Close the Sale
- By: Robin Lent, Genevieve Tour
- Narrated by: Jo Anna Perrin
- Length: 3 hrs and 12 mins
- Unabridged
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Overall
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Performance
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Story
Connect with affluent customers, create unique experiences through impeccable service, and close the sale.
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Great book for anyone in retail sales or hospitality
- By Lee on 06-30-22
By: Robin Lent, and others
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Fashionopolis
- The Price of Fast Fashion and the Future of Clothes
- By: Dana Thomas
- Narrated by: Dana Thomas
- Length: 9 hrs and 12 mins
- Unabridged
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Overall
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Performance
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Story
In Fashionopolis, Thomas sees renewal in a host of developments, including printing 3-D clothes, clean denim processing, smart manufacturing, hyperlocalism, fabric recycling - even lab-grown materials. From small-town makers and Silicon Valley whizzes to such household names as Stella McCartney, Levi’s, and Rent the Runway, Thomas highlights the companies big and small that are leading the crusade.
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Very informative and optimistic
- By cannonwall on 01-05-20
By: Dana Thomas
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The Beautiful Fall
- Fashion, Genius, and Glorious Excess in 1970s Paris
- By: Alicia Drake
- Narrated by: Bernadette Dunne
- Length: 16 hrs and 19 mins
- Unabridged
-
Overall
-
Performance
-
Story
In the 1970s, Paris fashion exploded like a champagne bottle left out in the sun. Amid sequins and longing, celebrities and aspirants flocked to the heart of chic, and Paris became a hothouse of revelry, intrigue, and searing ambition. At the center of it all were fashion’s most beloved luminaries - Yves Saint Laurent, the reclusive enfant terrible, and Karl Lagerfeld, the flamboyant freelancer with a talent for reinvention - and they divided Paris into two fabulous halves.
-
-
Fun and immersive -- despite the narrator
- By SBG on 01-10-21
By: Alicia Drake
-
The Gold Standard
- Giving Your Customers What They Didn't Know They Wanted
- By: Colin Cowie
- Narrated by: Colin Cowie
- Length: 5 hrs and 47 mins
- Unabridged
-
Overall
-
Performance
-
Story
Learn how to cultivate the most incredible customer experiences on earth through this essential guide by Colin Cowie, distinguished purveyor of unforgettable “wow” events for the world’s most demanding clients.
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Legendary advice
- By Bryce McNabb on 10-20-22
By: Colin Cowie
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Aesthetic Intelligence
- How to Boost It and Use It in Business and Beyond
- By: Pauline Brown
- Narrated by: Vivienne Leheny
- Length: 6 hrs and 57 mins
- Unabridged
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Overall
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Performance
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Story
In this groundbreaking audiobook, Pauline Brown, a former leader of the world’s top luxury goods company and a pioneer in identifying the role of aesthetics in business, shows executives, entrepreneurs, and other professionals how to harness the power of the senses to create products, services, and experiences that stand out, resonate with their customers, and create long-term value for their businesses. The power is rooted in Aesthetic Intelligence - or "the other AI", as Brown refers to it.
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Good but too surface level.
- By gil nevo on 04-28-20
By: Pauline Brown
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House of Versace
- The Untold Story of Genius, Murder, and Survival
- By: Deborah Ball
- Narrated by: Jo Anna Perrin
- Length: 12 hrs and 23 mins
- Unabridged
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Overall
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Performance
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Story
Versace. The very name conjures up images of outrageous glamour and bold sexuality, opulence and daring. All of course true, but only half the story. Versace is also the legacy of a great creative genius from a poor, backward part of southern Italy who transformed the fashion world through his intuitive understanding of both women and how a changing culture influenced the way they wanted to dress. House of Versace shows how Gianni Versace, with his flamboyant sister Donatella at his side, combined his virtuosic talent and extraordinary ambition to help create celebrity culture.
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Amazing!
- By Brian M. Derrick on 08-26-19
By: Deborah Ball
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Gods and Kings
- The Rise and Fall of Alexander McQueen and John Galliano
- By: Dana Thomas
- Narrated by: Elizabeth Sastre
- Length: 15 hrs and 47 mins
- Unabridged
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Overall
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Performance
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Story
In February 2011 John Galliano, the lauded head of Christian Dior, imploded with a drunken, anti-Semitic public tirade. Exactly a year earlier, celebrated designer Alexander McQueen took his own life three weeks before his women's wear show. Both were casualties of the war between art and commerce that has raged within fashion for the last two decades.
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Captivating
- By kpaige on 04-15-15
By: Dana Thomas
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Karl Lagerfeld
- A Life in Fashion
- By: Alfons Kaiser
- Narrated by: Stephen R. Thorne
- Length: 14 hrs and 59 mins
- Unabridged
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Overall
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Performance
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Story
Karl Lagerfeld stylized himself into a living logo and a myth of the fashion world. In Karl Lagerfeld: A Life in Fashion, journalist Alfons Kaiser, who knew Lagerfeld personally for many years, introduces listeners to the public and private life of the charismatic fashion designer. Kaiser explores the many eras of Lagerfeld’s life: the youthful outsider in the north German flatlands; the urbane genius in Paris; the tireless draftsman; the enthusiastic photographer; the passionate book collector; and the disciplined Prussian workaholic.
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Disjointed and dull
- By Virginia Sanden on 05-25-22
By: Alfons Kaiser
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The 22 Immutable Laws of Marketing
- By: Al Ries, Jack Trout
- Narrated by: David Drummond
- Length: 3 hrs and 6 mins
- Unabridged
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Overall
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Performance
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Story
As Al Ries and Jack Trout - the world-renowned marketing consultants and best-selling authors of Positioning - note, you can build an impressive airplane, but it will never leave the ground if you ignore the laws of physics, especially gravity. Why then, they ask, shouldn’t there also be laws of marketing that must be followed to launch and maintain winning brands? In The 22 Immutable Laws of Marketing, Ries and Trout offer a compendium of 22 innovative rules for understanding and succeeding in the international marketplace.
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Highly recommended, but could use an update.
- By T. M. Castagna on 12-01-15
By: Al Ries, and others
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No B.S. Marketing to the Affluent
- No Holds Barred, Take No Prisoners, Guide to Getting Really Rich 3rd
- By: Dan S. Kennedy
- Narrated by: Shawn Compton
- Length: 9 hrs and 20 mins
- Unabridged
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Overall
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Performance
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Story
In this new edition of No B.S. Marketing to the Affluent, millionaire maker Dan S. Kennedy shows you how to re-position your business, practice, or sales career to attract customers or clients for whom price is not a determining factor. Learn how to sell to those who will always be spending as Kennedy shines the spotlight on the practical strategies used by The Ritz-Carlton, Disney, Harrah's Entertainment, Dove, AARP, Dr. Oz, Starbucks, Williams-Sonoma, DeBeers, the health and wellness industry, and many other fascinating and diverse true-life examples.
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Politically Charged + Trump Supporter
- By ds on 06-28-19
By: Dan S. Kennedy
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Networking with Millionaires...and Their Advisors
- By: Thomas J. Stanley Ph.D.
- Narrated by: Thomas J. Stanley Ph.D.
- Length: 4 hrs and 34 mins
- Unabridged
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Overall
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Performance
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Story
In The Millionaire Next Door, best selling author Thomas Stanley identified the millionaires around you. In The Millionaire Mind, he told you how they think. Now, he tells you how to get their business.
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Well Read, With Practical and Insightful Guidance
- By Keyvan on 01-18-04
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The Conscious Closet
- The Revolutionary Guide to Looking Good While Doing Good
- By: Elizabeth L. Cline
- Narrated by: Elizabeth L. Cline
- Length: 9 hrs and 11 mins
- Unabridged
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Overall
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Performance
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Story
In her landmark investigation Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion, Elizabeth L. Cline first revealed fast fashion’s hidden toll on the environment, garment workers, and even our own satisfaction with our clothes. The Conscious Closet shows exactly what we can do about it. Whether your goal is to build an effortless capsule wardrobe, keep up with trends without harming the environment, buy better quality, seek out ethical brands, or all of the above, The Conscious Closet is packed with the vital tools you need.