Alannah Yip is a professional climber from Canada who competed at the Tokyo Olympics. We talked about getting diagnosed with alopecia and the emotional journey of losing her hair, taking back her power, preparing for the Olympic Qualifying Series, lessons from Tokyo, mantras for slab boulders, her involvement with IFSC policies to prevent eating disorders and RED-S, her eating disorder as a teenager, why she plans to retire from comps, rock climbing goals, and much more!

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Watch the Video Interview:

EP 220: Alannah Yip — Uncut Video!

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Or download the Crimpd app for free!

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physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)

Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!

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The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!

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Use this link for 10% off your first month!

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alannah-yip

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:11) – Alopecia

(00:07:31) – Identity crisis

(00:11:33) – Deciding to shave her head

(00:12:55) – Taking back her power

(00:19:55) – Setting it on the back burner

(00:25:33) – Training camps

(00:30:23) – Alannah’s coaches

(00:33:47) – Training for Paris vs. Tokyo

(00:39:26) – Feelings about Tokyo

(00:42:08) – Lessons from Tokyo

(00:44:06) – Training with other women

(00:46:52) – Working on slab

(00:50:10) – The Olympic Qualifying Series

(00:55:00) – Olympic vs. World Cup lead style

(00:59:27) – Why she quit comps during college

(01:02:10) – Making the jump to World Cups

(01:04:35) – Reexamining her relationship with climbing as an adult

(01:08:54) – Engineering & coaching

(01:11:28) – Excited to retire from comps

(01:18:24) – IFSC policies to prevent eating disorders & RED-S

(01:30:05) – Self-reporting & BMI

(01:35:39) – Alannah’s eating disorder as a teenager

(01:41:53) – The turning point

(01:43:50) – Dealing with hard moments

(01:45:30) – Conflicted feelings about food

(01:48:13) – Alannah’s PSAs

(01:50:15) – My PSA

(01:53:03) – Mutual appreciation

(01:55:05) – What’s next

(01:56:24) – Rapid fire Qs

(02:01:21) – Occasionally on Instagram

(02:04:49) – Wrap up

Fitz Cahall is the cofounder of Duct Tape Then Beer, and the creator of The Dirtbag Diaries and Climbing Gold with Alex Honnold. We talked about the early days of the internet, what podcasting was like in 2007, being on the fringe, storytelling, virtual reality, spending your time on the right things, the unglamorous parts of our work, results vs. success, his new book States of Adventure, and much more!

Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!

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Watch the Video Interview:

EP 219: Fitz Cahall — Uncut Video!

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madrock.com

Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order!

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fitz-cahall

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:30) – A typical workday

(00:06:32) – Early days of the internet

(00:10:12) – Starting to climb

(00:14:45) – Writing for outdoor magazines

(00:19:48) – The fringe

(00:22:42) – Creating the Dirtbag Diaries

(00:33:40) – Storytelling

(00:38:08) – Podcasting in 2007

(00:50:47) – Early video podcasts

(00:55:32) – Virtual reality

(01:02:48) – Being pro but not fancy

(01:05:45) – Choosing stories

(01:13:19) – His new book

(01:18:04) – A Lifeline Home

(01:23:20) – States of Adventure

(01:35:54) – My own plans for a book

(01:42:23) – Taking authorship of your time

(01:50:25) – Spending time on the right things

(01:56:09) – The unglamorous parts

(02:03:20) – Giving yourself space

(02:12:45) – Uberism & mediocrity

(02:17:24) – Results vs. success

(02:20:20) – Climbing Gold & the Olympics

(02:28:46) – Wrap up

Mat Wright returns to the podcast to talk about his send of ‘Rhapsody’! We talked about the emotional dip after a hard send, the power of letting things come to you, making your own luck, patience as a tactic, top-down projecting, feeding our internal climbing algorithms, his process and how it felt to send, his next project, learning how to take the pressure off, and much more!

Get coaching from Mat!

matwrightcoaching.com

Check out Kletterkalk UK!

kletterkalk.co.uk

Mat's go-to chalk, and a great option for folks in the UK and Europe!

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/mat-wright-returns

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:03:16) – Catch up and self-coaching

(00:08:58) – The dip after a hard send

(00:11:57) – Letting things come to you

(00:15:28) – His approach to ‘Rhapsody’ E11

(00:21:33) – Mindset and preparation

(00:24:22) – Making your own luck

(00:27:01) – Patience as a tactic

(00:31:51) – Top-down projecting

(00:36:15) – Feeding the climbing algorithm

(00:39:57) – Self 1 and self 2

(00:41:37) – The send

(00:44:54) – The process

(00:51:17) – The emotions after the send

(00:54:57) – Mat’s next project

(00:59:09) – Not taking it quite so seriously

(01:03:08) – Taking the pressure off

(01:11:00) – Taking time off

(01:18:37) – Less vs. more

(01:24:07) – Wrap up

Dr. David Spiegel is a Stanford psychiatrist and one of the world’s most respected experts in the field of hypnosis. We talked about how our minds can make our bodies feel better, how hypnosis has helped his clients, why hypnosis is a good fit for climbers, breathing exercises for relaxation or focus, his new Reveri App, and much more. Dr. Spiegel does a self-hypnosis session with Steven to relieve stress and anxiety and you can follow along!

Check out Reveri:

reverihealth.app.link/nuggetclimbing

👆 Use my special link to get 2 free weeks!

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

👆 7-Day Free Trial!

Check out the Arc'teryx Climbing Academy:

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👆 Sign up and follow them on Instagram for updates!

Check out Crimpd:

crimpd.com

👆 Download the Crimpd app for free!

Check out KAYA!

kayaclimb.com

👆 Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!

Check out PhysiVantage:

physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)

👆 Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/david-spiegel

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:46) – Dr. Spiegel’s background

(00:08:51) – My experience with Reveri

(00:10:45) – Trying out being different

(00:14:47) – Compassion for your body

(00:16:35) – The stage hypnosis hustle

(00:18:58) – Hypnotizability

(00:23:51) – Cognitive flexibility

(00:25:36) – The long-term effects of self-hypnosis

(00:30:21) – Hypnosis is gaining control

(00:36:31) – Is hypnotizability learnable?

(00:45:20) – Climbing styles and hypnotizability

(00:46:48) – Hypnotizability Test

(00:57:55) – Discussing my results

(01:00:10) – Anxiety

(01:01:48) – Novelty, memory, and visualization

(01:07:30) – More about hypnotizability

(01:13:52) – Hypnosis as a tool

(01:17:03) – Relieve Stress Hypnosis Session

(01:31:49) – Debrief of our session

(01:34:25) – Explaining the ritual

(01:38:45) – The Reveri App

(01:42:15) – How climbers should use the app

(01:47:14) – Breathing exercises

(01:54:19) – Putting it all together

(01:56:31) – Final thoughts

This is a full bonus episode for Patrons! Maddy and I catch up about our weekend sends, Maddy shares a few key nuggets from our main episode, and then gives us a 2-hour masterclass in endurance training! Listen to the end for three free endurance protocols from Lattice's new online course that you can use in your training.

*Use the timestamps below if you want to skip to the masterclass.

Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! The full version is 2:54:13.

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Our weekends

(00:07:30) – Key takeaways from our main episode

(00:40:45) – A masterclass in endurance training

Maddy Cope is a world-class rock climber and the head of education for Lattice Training. We talked about Maddy’s transition from dancing to climbing, living in a shack in the woods in Chamonix, and lessons from her personal reflections on climbing. We also talked about Lattice’s new online training course that Maddy was in charge of creating and gave a discount for listeners!

Check out the Lattice Training Course!

Ultimate Course + Assessment Bundle

Use code “NUGGET20” for 20% off!

Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!

rhinoskinsolutions.com

Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!

Check out KAYA!

kayaclimb.com

Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!

Check out Arc'teryx!

Shop for my favorite approach shoes

The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!

betterhelp.com/NUGGET

Use this link for 10% off your first month!

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/maddy-cope

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:04:09) – Food poisoning in the van

(00:09:03) – Home wall training

(00:13:59) – Overview

(00:15:49) – Dancing to climbing

(00:20:35) – Warrington

(00:27:31) – The Cham Shack

(00:34:57) – Discomfort

(00:36:19) – Comfort creep

(00:48:28) – Pleasure pointing

(00:54:08) – Being your biggest supporter

(01:05:22) – The joy of missing out

(01:11:40) – Not having a bucket list

(01:18:12) – Quitting social media and sponsorship

(01:22:20) – Half thereness

(01:26:11) – British over-modesty

(01:49:54) – Getting into training

(01:55:30) – Maddy’s role with Lattice

(01:57:46) – Lattice’s new training course

(02:07:47) – Who should buy the course?

(02:16:45) – Online vs. in-person coaching

(02:25:21) – Wrap up and discount code

(02:30:18) – Identifying blind spots

(02:36:15) – EXTRA teaser for Patrons!

Nathan Williams is obsessed with ‘Return of the Sleepwalker’ 9A/V17, and estimates he has spent 100+ days trying it. We talked about getting mentored by Jimmy Webb and Kasia Pietras and sending his first V10 within one year of climbing, why he took a year off, falling in love with ROTS, how to stay psyched after bad days, friction control, climbing with a purpose, gaining legendary finger strength in a few minutes per week, static feats of strength, and much more!

Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Watch the Video Interview:

EP 215: Nathan Williams — Uncut Video!

Check out PhysiVantage!

physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)

Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!

Check out the Arc'teryx Climbing Academy!

squamish.arcteryxacademy.com

instagram.com/arcteryxacademy

Check out Chalk Cartel!

chalkcartel.com

Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!

Check out Crimpd!

crimpd.com

Or download the Crimpd app for free!

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/nathan-williams

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:50) – Gaming

(00:05:13) – Overview

(00:06:52) – The luckiest intro to climbing

(00:11:12) – His first V10

(00:15:20) – Making the jump to V15/16

(00:17:38) – ‘Sleepwalker’

(00:19:53) – The birth of ‘Return of the Sleepwalker’

(00:21:45) – Getting obsessed

(00:25:31) – What makes a good session

(00:28:02) – Staying psyched after bad days

(00:30:51) – Friction control

(00:34:46) – Bad tactics

(00:39:15) – Feeling strong

(00:41:17) – No regrets

(00:45:27) – ROTS as a board climb

(00:50:34) – Training for ROTS

(00:56:33) – Nathan’s one-arm hang workout

(01:01:51) – One-arm hangs vs. lifting from the ground

(01:05:43) – More finger training

(01:09:04) – Micros and finger anatomy

(01:11:47) – Nathan’s climbing style

(01:24:22) – Static projects

(01:26:01) – Feats of strength

(01:28:08) – Climbing inspiration

(01:29:45) – Excuses and explanations

(01:37:14) – Skin products

(01:41:31) – Why he took a year off

(01:44:34) – Not forcing it

(01:47:38) – Working with a coach

(01:51:22) – Life balance

(01:54:47) – Climbing with a purpose

(01:59:28) – Upcoming goals and plans

(02:02:01) – More ROTS

(02:11:33) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons

Neely Quinn returns to the podcast! We talked about how doing mindset work with Hazel Findlay changed her life, why she decided to become a life coach herself, simple tactics for working through negative emotions and banishing shame, why working on your mindset will make you climb harder, and much more! Neely also gives Steven a life coaching session and helps him find more contentment with his climbing.

Book a Session With Neely:

trainingbeta.com

Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Watch the Video Interview:

EP 214: Neely Quinn — Uncut Video!

Check out KAYA!

kayaclimb.com

Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!

The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!

betterhelp.com/NUGGET

Use this link for 10% off your first month!

Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!

rhinoskinsolutions.com

Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!

Check out Arc'teryx!

Shop for my favorite approach shoes

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/neely-quinn-returns

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:35) – Neely’s breakfast

(00:02:48) – Jonathan Siegrist’s rest days

(00:04:32) – Overview of our chat

(00:05:47) – How working with Hazel Findlay changed her life

(00:12:09) – The discomfort goal

(00:14:56) – Not sending ‘Tombraider’ 5.13d, and learning how to enjoy climbing again

(00:16:34) – Trying max hard, and feeling ready to fail

(00:21:15) – Pursuing life coaching

(00:22:28) – Self-talk

(00:23:09) – The role of a life coach

(00:24:35) – Mindset tools

(00:28:40) – Email apnea

(00:35:22) – Emotions, shame, and what to do

(00:38:10) – Steven gets a life coaching session

(01:00:07) – Gratitude, self-affirmation, and the list of 3s

(01:06:39) – Becoming a life coach

(01:08:37) – What Neely is still working on

(01:15:29) – Gremlin work

(01:26:45) – Getting out of depression

(01:30:38) – Toil

(01:31:56) – Piano, projecting, and self-hatred

(01:34:07) – Self-esteem and inherent value

(01:35:52) – Respect and envy

(01:38:27) – Our homework

(01:41:30) – A last bit of coaching for Steven

(01:49:26) – Knowing when to pivot

(01:51:02) – Wanting without attachment

(01:53:20) – Where to find Neely

(01:55:37) – What to look for in a mindset coach

(01:57:01) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons!