Peter Mortimer is an award-winning filmmaker (King Lines, Valley Uprising, The Dawn Wall, The Alpinist) and co-creator of the Reel Rock Film Tour. We talked about his latest project, The Dark Wizard, a new 4-part documentary series now streaming on HBO Max about Dean Potter, which shares the full story of Dean in all of his human complexity—as a visionary, climbing legend, and a tormented soul.

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Show Notes:

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/peter-mortimer

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:21) – Peter’s film career

(00:11:54) – Hustling

(00:15:28) – The Dark Wizard

(00:31:14) – Inside Dean’s mind

(00:38:34) – Dean’s rivalry with Alex Honnold

(00:49:42) – Everything on the table

(00:51:25) – Where to watch

(00:52:34) – Where to follow Peter

Dave Thompson is a 5.14 and V14 first ascentionist, alpinist, and coach for Evoke Endurance. We talked about his early climbing in the North Cascade mountains of Washington State, doing the first ascent of some of the best hard boulders in Leavenworth (Beautification, God is in the Details, The Teacup), how he got so strong, how to apply your strength on the wall, the challenges of endurance training in climbing, and more.

Free Masterclass (Unlock Your Full Potential in Climbing) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com

Show Notes:

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/dave-thompson

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:29) – Dave’s path to rock climbing

(00:07:31) – Bob Buckley

(00:10:42) – The Teacup FA

(00:14:54) – Dave’s coaching philosophy

(00:25:53) – How Dave got up to V14

(00:37:05) – A way of moving

(00:43:19) – How to improve your gym sessions

(00:48:11) – Training

(00:55:54) – Dave’s climbing and coaching

(00:58:53) – Dave coaches me on The Teacup

(01:02:48) – FAs in the Methow Valley

(01:06:59) – FAs in Leavenworth

(01:11:16) – How strong can adults get at climbing?

(01:13:18) – Personal agency

(01:20:34) – Catching a wave

(01:23:46) – Bouldering efficiency session

(01:30:32) – Evoke success

(01:36:47) – Training for sport climbing

(01:43:25) – Not thinking

(01:44:17) – How to connect with Dave

Sam Watson is the current world record holder in speed climbing (4.64 seconds) and an Olympic Bronze medalist. We talked about breaking the world record in Paris, how he makes a living, building a social media following in China, the future potential of speed climbing, recovery routines and tools, chess, favorite books, airport stoicism, and more.

Free Masterclass (Unlock Your Full Potential in Climbing) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com

Show Notes:

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/sam-watson

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:38) – Winter Olympics

(00:05:48) – Breaking the World Record in Paris

(00:14:20) – Winning Bronze in Paris

(00:25:50) – LA Olympics

(00:30:11) – How Sam makes a living

(00:34:49) – Building a following in China

(00:38:40) – Different speed formats

(00:42:38) – Pro Climbing League

(00:51:15) – Sam’s intro to speed climbing

(01:12:35) – Sam’s future career arc

(01:20:48) – Recovery routines & tools

(01:24:15) – Journaling & Chris Sharma

(01:29:31) – The culture of speed climbing

(01:32:08) – The potential of speed

(01:38:43) – Speed Classic

(01:40:42) – Sam’s potential & the 0.1 rule

(01:46:03) – Sub 6 for the women

(01:47:33) – Hobbies & books

(01:51:23) – Sam’s upcoming goals

(01:52:08) – Airport stoicism

(01:53:34) – Where to find Sam