Sean Houchins-McCallum is the top-ranked climber on the Tension Board 2. We talked about growing up in Iowa, his obsession with board climbing, his insane training schedule, his ultimate board project, why we haven’t seen V15+ on the boards, projecting tactics, how changing his diet allowed him to jump up two grades, his home made pre-workout, TB2 vs. outdoor bouldering, dream lines, and much more.

Rúngne:

rungne.info/nugget

Use code “NUGGET” for 10% off storewide.

Arc’teryx:

Women’s climbing clothing

Men’s climbing clothing

Check out the NEW Kragg Collection.

Maui Nui Venison:

mauinuivenison.com/NUGGET

The healthiest red meat on the planet. Wild harvested and responsibly sourced.

Mad Rock:

madrock.com

Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy and Mark and Julie Calhoun

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/sean-houchins-mccallum

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:16) – Unsynthesized

(00:04:50) – Sending every classic in 4 months

(00:07:02) – Limit projects every day

(00:09:31) – Sean vs. Noah Wheeler

(00:11:36) – Is boarding its own sport?

(00:16:04) – Becoming a board climber

(00:17:30) – Sean’s ultimate board proj (You’ve Seen the Butcher at 65º)

(00:19:10) – Board tactics

(00:21:28) – Why aren’t there V15s or harder on boards?

(00:26:14) – Getting outside

(00:27:45) – Sean’s dimensions

(00:29:24) – Sean’s warms up

(00:34:07) – A typical week

(00:36:52) – Sean’s projecting tactics

(00:40:42) – 2 months on

(00:46:52) – Does Sean train his strengths?

(00:54:20) – Sean’s weaknesses

(00:57:19) – The Spray layout

(01:01:41) – TB1 vs. TB2

(01:02:49) – Mirroring climbs & the leaderboard

(01:07:05) – Intimidating holds on the TB2

(01:10:19) – Go-to shoes

(01:11:36) – Working & setting

(01:17:11) – Outdoor goals

(01:18:55) – Jumping up 2 grades after changing his diet

(01:26:52) – TB2 vs. outside

(01:31:57) – New board companies

(01:34:59) – Sport climbing feature

(01:38:59) – Dream lines

(01:40:17) – Rapid fire questions

(02:00:53) – How Low Can You Go?

Tess Driessens is a professional climbing coach and lives with chronic pain. We talked about getting diagnosed with five herniated discs from a cliff jumping accident, tools for chronic pain, why hope can be negative, finding true acceptance, meditation, Alexander Technique and Feldenkrais Method, finding happiness within, why love is the key to life, and three sentences she tells herself every day. You can work with Tess at motion-coaching.be

The NUG 👉 frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug

Tindeq 👉 tindeq.com (Use code “nugget” for 10% off your order)

The GRINDS Program 👉 thenuggetclimbing.com

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy and Mark and Julie Calhoun

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tess-driessens

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:00:57) – The North Pole

(00:16:14) – Gymnastics & childhood

(00:22:38) – Early climbing

(00:24:32) – 5 herniated discs

(00:41:16) – Developing chronic pain

(00:46:57) – Pain drugs & alternatives

(00:52:39) – Hope, expectations, & acceptance

(00:57:24) – A healing sabatical

(01:05:01) – A healing sabatical continued

(01:10:20) – Meditation

(01:12:38) – Alexander Technique & Feldenkrais Method

(01:18:37) – Tools for chronic pain

(01:27:39) – Happiness within

(01:33:55) – Meditation continued

(01:38:45) – Love

(01:42:34) – Tess’ three sentences

(01:48:52) – Long covid

(01:58:20) – Sending 8a without physical training

(02:02:53) – Visualization

(02:09:24) – Low-load training

(02:11:06) – Adaptability & taking control

(02:12:41) – Recovery tips

(02:17:55) – Investing in relaxation

(02:19:55) – Heart coherence breathing

(02:26:10) – Quotes & gratitude

(02:30:31) – Closing questions

Dr. Keith Baar is a leading expert in tendon and ligament engineering and repair. Natalie Gilmore is a PhD student focused on climbing-specific research. We talked about the results of their recent retrospective study, exciting new science, why “Abrahangs” improve force transfer, why progressively overloading them is a bad idea, protocols for finger health and strength, and more.

PhysiVantage:

physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)

Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.

Arc’teryx:

Women’s climbing clothing

Men’s climbing clothing

Check out the NEW Kragg Collection.

Rúngne:

rungne.info/nugget

Use code “NUGGET” for a discount storewide.

Mad Rock:

madrock.com

Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy and Mark and Julie Calhoun

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/keith-and-natalie

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:03:03) – Keith’s background

(00:10:05) – Natalie’s background

(00:13:08) – The “Abrahangs” retrospective study

(00:17:56) – Natalie’s experience with “Abrahangs”

(00:18:52) – The limitations of a retrospective

(00:22:41) – Exciting new studies

(00:32:09) – What’s happening with “Abrahangs”?

(00:41:33) – Is there a “best” protocol?

(00:46:40) – Balancing tendon health & stiffness

(00:57:00) – Recommendations

(01:06:03) – A cautionary tale

(01:08:36) – Low-jerk isometrics

(01:13:46) – Can “Abrahangs” increase training capacity?

(01:15:42) – Summary

(01:16:19) – Keith & Natalie’s dream studies

(01:19:25) – Wrap up

Connor Bodin climbed 30 minutes per day for 100 consecutive days to boost his endurance, and it worked. His critical force went from 30% of bodyweight to an impressive 44% of bodyweight, and his climbing standard went from 5.11+ to 5.12+. In this Patron Spotlight, Connor shares exactly what he did during the 100-day experiment, what he learned, what he plans to do next time, Dave MacLeod’s original experiment that inspired him, and more. Think you’ll try it out?

Become a Patron for a chance to be featured in the next Patron Spotlight! 👉 patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy and Mark and Julie Calhoun

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/connor-bodin

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:03:11) – The 100-Day Experiment

(00:11:14) – The results (Critical Force & climbing)

(00:20:07) – High-Low training

(00:24:11) – The benefit of simplicity

(The following topics are available for Patrons only)

(00:29:17) – Junk mileage vs. movement practice

(00:35:33) – Plans for future experiments

(00:38:11) – The power of the pull-up

(00:44:35) – Building your own board

(00:48:46) – The benefits of an adjustable wall

(00:52:05) – Climbing shoes

(00:58:56) – Connor’s next experiment

(01:03:36) – Dave MacLeod’s experiment

(01:10:34) – Chris Sommer’s interview with Tim Ferriss

(01:13:22) – One-arm vs. two-arm hanging

(01:19:30) – Patron Spotlights

(01:21:09) – Tough to be a pro

(01:24:19) – Rekindled psych

Katie Lambert is an accomplished all-around climber with a master's in nutrition. We talked about how to get more value out of climbing trips, her training and cold plunge routine, perimenopause, her 40:30:30 approach to nutrition, how to eat on a climbing day, ingredients to avoid, go-to carb sources, eating healthy on a budget, her non-profit Sacred Rok, getting kids to enjoy healthy food, farm-to-school, and more.

Maui Nui Venison:

mauinuivenison.com/NUGGET

The healthiest red meat on the planet. Wild harvested and responsibly sourced.

AG1:

drinkAG1.com/NUGGET

Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs.

Donate to Sacred Rok:

Directly 👉 sacredrok.org

Via The Nugget 👉 patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy and Mark and Julie Calhoun

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/katie-lambert-returns

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:14) – Chickens

(00:06:18) – El Salto

(00:07:36) – Outline of topics

(00:11:27) – Katie’s climbing these days

(00:18:38) – Getting more value from climbing trips

(00:30:05) – How to continue progressing

(00:33:55) – Training & cold plunge routine

(00:42:17) – Perimenopause & menopause

(00:52:28) – 40:30:30 & nutrition tips for climbers

(01:05:35) – Katie’s thoughts on keto & carnivore

(01:13:57) – Ingredients to avoid

(01:21:58) – Starting Sacred Rok with Ron Kauk

(01:35:28) – Getting kids to eat healthy food

(01:39:07) – Farm to school

(01:47:19) – Affordable nutrition

(01:54:36) – Katie’s go-to carb sources

(01:59:46) – Saturated fat, dairy, & best fats for cooking

(02:02:10) – Seed oils

(02:04:54) – Rapid fire questions

(02:12:59) – Cathy Wagner’s scorecard

(02:15:18) – Wrap up

Tony Yaniro is a climbing legend and the first-ever person to redpoint a 5.13b with his ascent of The Grand Illusion in 1979. We talked about his early years, handmaking cams in his garage, developing The Needles, inventing the first campus board, training for 5.14 using tin foil, the controversy of chipping routes at Leslie Gulch, his legendary homewall on wheels, building a climbing gym, the importance of respecting your body, and much more.

PhysiVantage:

physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)

Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.

Arc’teryx:

Women’s climbing clothing

Men’s climbing clothing

Check out the NEW Kragg Collection.

Mad Rock:

madrock.com

Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.

Rúngne:

rungne.info/nugget-club

👆 Join the Rúngne community & start earning.

Use code “NUGGET” to get 10% off storewide.

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy and Mark and Julie Calhoun

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tony-yaniro

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:49) – Tony’s early climbing

(00:11:01) – Sticky rubber & homemade cams

(00:15:32) – 5 steps ahead

(00:21:12) – Hangdogging & The Grand Illusion (world’s first 5.13b)

(00:26:45) – Snowbird, backlash, & soloers

(00:30:08) – The Needles

(00:37:40) – Training for Scarface with tin foil

(00:40:58) – Pull-ups & Jim Collins

(00:45:57) – Quitting climbing the second time

(00:49:59) – The Winnebago

(00:52:50) – Making climbing holds

(00:57:07) – Leslie Gulch

(01:05:11) – City of Rocks

(01:10:24) – Drawing the line

(01:16:12) – Old school bolting

(01:24:40) – Riggins

(01:28:08) – Hideous Thing

(01:30:32) – Tony’s career & weekend climbing

(01:36:29) – Building a climbing gym

(01:41:41) – Tony’s climbing these days

(01:43:13) – Listen to your body

(01:46:17) – Respect your body

(01:47:50) – What excites Tony

Adam Ondra is the greatest climber of all time. We talked about his trip to Smith Rock in 2018, onsighting Just Do It, what he was like as a kid, his 9c projects, Soudain Seul 9A, the Imhotep project, how he trains for long boulders vs routes, the Olympics, The Dawn Wall, climbing ethics, the monster within, why he thinks he can push his level for 7 more years, and much more.

Rúngne:

rungne.info/nugget-club

👆 Join the Rúngne community & start earning.

Use code “NUGGET” to get 10% off storewide.

Mad Rock:

madrock.com

Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.

Arc’teryx:

Women’s climbing clothing

Men’s climbing clothing

Check out the NEW Kragg Collection.

AG1:

drinkAG1.com/NUGGET

Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs.

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy and Mark and Julie Calhoun

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/adam-ondra

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:00:34) – Onsighting ‘Just Do It’

(00:05:13) – Rock Stars

(00:07:26) – Adam as a kid

(00:15:14) – Unfinished business

(00:18:49) – Unclimbed 9c projects

(00:23:50) – Untapped potential

(00:27:25) – Soudain Seul & other 9As

(00:31:17) – The Imhotep project

(00:39:55) – Training for long boulders

(00:43:43) – Training for sport climbing

(00:46:19) – Golpe de Estado

(00:48:40) – Patxi training

(00:51:07) – Modern comp routes

(00:54:29) – Feelings about comps

(00:58:32) – Weight for lead comps

(01:05:41) – The Olympics

(01:07:40) – Speed climbing

(01:09:45) – The Dawn Wall

(01:21:02) – Adam’s ethics

(01:25:54) – Projects in Yosemite & Smith Rock

(01:28:30) – Satisfaction with his career

(01:32:50) – The monster within

(01:36:48) – 7 more years & endless routes

(01:38:50) – 8a at 80

(01:40:23) – How climbing grades scale

(01:41:59) – Finger size

(01:45:09) – Hugo

(01:46:44) – Letting kids do risky things

(01:48:15) – What’s next

(01:49:21) – Wrap up

Max Didier is a Chilean big wall climber and alpinist turned boulderer. We talked about leaving the Air Force to climb, the value of exploration and adventure, his trip to India, maintaining simplicity in life, becoming a bouldering coach, the balance of strength and technique, his training routine, training with intention, mindset and motivation, enjoying the process, starting late, finding your passion, his futuristic project, and more.

PhysiVantage:

physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)

Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.

Revival Climbing Coalition:

revivalclimbing.com

EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)

Learn more about Revival’s adjustable climbing walls and landing systems.

The NUG:

frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug

Check out my new portable hangboard.

Tindeq:

tindeq.com

Use code “nugget” for 10% off your order.

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy and Mark and Julie Calhoun

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/max-didier

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:09) – Chiloé Island

(00:04:05) – Max’s home gym & coaching

(00:06:30) – The Air Force

(00:13:22) – Climbing for the first time

(00:18:36) – Quitting the Air Force

(00:21:10) – How Max improved so quickly

(00:25:02) – Yosemite & the beauty of climbing

(00:30:40) – Max’s early finger training

(00:35:20) – India

(00:49:24) – Simplifying & kids

(00:53:54) – Sofia

(00:56:06) – Climbing areas in Chile

(00:59:42) – Facundo Langbehn

(01:01:28) – Becoming a boulderer

(01:06:46) – The complexity of strength

(01:13:49) – Hangboarding vs. board climbing

(01:18:31) – Max’s simple strength workout

(01:26:36) – Example training week

(01:30:02) – Consistency & intention

(01:35:49) – Focusing on enjoying the process

(01:47:27) – Believing in yourself

(01:55:43) – Adapting your sessions

(02:00:26) – Advice for climbers who started late

(02:05:28) – How to find your passion

(02:15:22) – Max’s V16 or V17 project

(02:22:37) – Future plans

(02:24:02) – Favorite training music

(02:24:50) – Go-to climbing shoes

(02:25:29) – Pre-send ritual

(02:28:43) – Favorite rock type

(02:30:20) – Moonboard 2016

(02:33:00) – Favorite climbing film

(02:34:10) – Chilean climbing destinations

(02:35:59) – Photography

(02:38:04) – Patagonia

(02:38:54) – Follow your dream