On this episode of Taqueando, Bill Esparza sits down with Rocío Moreno of Birrieria Nochistlán, one of Los Angeles’ most traditional and enduring Mexican restaurants, located in Boyle Heights. Together, they trace the restaurant’s roots back to Nochistlán, Zacatecas, where Rocío’s family has been preparing birria for generations—offering a rare, direct connection between a small Mexican town and the LA food scene.

The episode also follows their recent trip to Nochistlán, where they explore regional specialties like gorditas, tacos al pastor, tamales, and other local dishes rarely found in the United States, highlighting the depth and diversity of Zacatecan cuisine.

Back in Los Angeles, Rocío shares how her family built Birrieria Nochistlán from a backyard operation into a 26-year institution, why they’ve resisted expanding the menu, and what it means to preserve tradition in a constantly evolving food city.

The conversation also touches on legacy and loss, as Rocío reflects on taking over the restaurant after her father’s passing and carrying forward not just a recipe, but a family’s life work.

If you care about regional Mexican food, LA’s hidden gems, and the stories behind the city’s most meaningful restaurants, this is an episode you don’t want to miss.

On this episode of Taqueando, Bill Esparza heads to Chileno Bay in Cabo San Lucas to sit down with Chef Yvan Mucharraz, the culinary force behind COMAL, YAYA, and TnT (Tacos and Tequila) at Chileno Bay Resort & Residences, Auberge Resorts Collection. Together, they unpack why Baja is quietly becoming one of the most important food regions in the world, from its unmatched seafood to its deep network of organic farms and local producers.

Chef Yvan shares the philosophy behind each concept—COMAL, the resort’s signature open-air restaurant showcasing innovative regional Mexican flavors; YAYA, a Mediterranean-Latin concept centered around live-fire cooking; and TnT, a casual beachside taqueria built on simplicity and fun. He also breaks down his Baja Lab series, which brings some of the world’s best chefs to Cabo for a “reverse stage” that’s transforming his kitchen from within.

Then, Bill is joined by Chef Val Cantu of Californios in San Francisco, the two-Michelin-star restaurant redefining Mexican fine dining in the United States. They dive into the evolution of tasting menu Mexican cuisine, the importance of masa, and why Mexican food is finally getting the recognition it deserves on the global stage.

From Baja to San Francisco, this episode explores where modern Mexican cuisine is headed next—and the chefs pushing it forward.

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Presented by MVA.wine. Discover wines that rarely make it to the US, hand-selected and to an exclusive group of 600 members. First 20 Taqueando listeners to sign up fet $50 off their first selection by using code LAFOOD.

On this episode of Taqueando, Bill Esparza sits down with Chef Jon Yao of Kato—the Michelin-starred, James Beard Award-winning restaurant redefining what Los Angeles cuisine can be. From his upbringing in the San Gabriel Valley to the philosophy behind Kato’s cooking, Jon shares how his food is less about invention and more about memory, identity, and place.

The conversation dives deep into the cultural fabric of LA, exploring how immigrant communities shape the city’s dining scene and why Kato could only exist here. Jon reflects on growing up surrounded by Taiwanese, Chinese, Vietnamese, and Mexican food traditions—and how that environment informs a style of cooking rooted in storytelling, not trends.

They also get into the realities of fine dining today: the pressures of Michelin and World’s 50 Best, the challenge of staying grounded amid global recognition, and why Jon prioritizes internal standards over external validation. At Kato, luxury isn’t about spectacle—it’s about care, intention, and serving food at its absolute best.

Plus, Jon shares his go-to spots across the San Gabriel Valley and beyond, from beef noodle soup institutions to under-the-radar specialists, offering a masterclass in how to eat one of the most dynamic food regions in the country.

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Presented by mva.wine. Become a part of this exclusive wine club (600 members only!) at mva.wine/subscribe - first 20 people to use code LAFOOD get $50 off their first collection.

This week on Taqueando, Bill sits down with Chef Manu Buffara, one of Latin America’s most influential chefs and the force behind Manu in Curitiba, Brazil — consistently ranked among the Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants.

From her early days in journalism to training in Italy and staging at Noma, Manu shares how her global experiences shaped a deeply personal approach to cooking rooted in local ingredients, seasonality, and storytelling.

But this conversation goes far beyond the plate.

Manu breaks down:

• What “local” really means in Brazil — and why it’s about people, history, and economics, not just ingredients
• How working at Noma changed her philosophy on simplicity and product-driven cooking
• Why she moved away from cooking for awards and started cooking for herself
• The evolution of fine dining — and why toxic kitchen culture has no place in the future
• How she built a restaurant where staff actually have a life, with shorter hours and a healthier culture
• Her foundation work feeding communities and empowering women in Curitiba

Plus, Bill shares the story of dining at Manu during the pandemic — a deeply personal, unforgettable 11-course experience that captures what makes her restaurant so special.

This is a conversation about food, empathy, leadership, and the future of restaurants — and why Curitiba might be one of the most exciting food cities you’re not talking about.

Presented by mva.wine. First 20 people to subscribe using the code LAFOOD receive $50 off their first collection of this incredible wine.

In this Q&A episode of Taqueando, James Beard–winning journalist Bill Esparza and producer Rob Haleblian tackle listener questions about taco culture, Mexican food traditions, and the biggest controversy shaking the global dining world.

The episode opens with a deep dive into the Noma scandal involving chef René Redzepi, the protests surrounding the restaurant’s Los Angeles pop-up, and what the controversy reveals about power, labor, and leadership in fine dining.

Then the show shifts into listener questions covering everything from salsa pairings for tacos, the origins of LA’s taco truck culture (including King Taco), and how to recognize restaurants chasing Michelin stars.

Bill also shares his expert tips for finding incredible food when traveling, how to approach unfamiliar cuisines, and the cultural rules behind tortillas, tacos, and regional Mexican dishes.

Whether you're obsessed with tacos, curious about restaurant culture, or planning your next food trip, this episode is packed with insider knowledge from one of the world’s leading voices on Mexican cuisine.

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Presented by MVA.wine - a wine collective that's disrupting the OG wine club model and bringing you rare wines from small producers that rarely make it to the US. First 20 people to subscribe using code "LAFOOD" receive their first collection for $50 off.

In this episode of Taqueando, James Beard–winning journalist Bill Esparza wraps up his three-part Mexico City series with a deep dive into the restaurants shaping the CDMX dining scene right now.

From iconic fine-dining institutions like Pujol, Quintonil, Rosetta, and Sud 777 to buzzy newcomers and chef-driven fondas, Bill breaks down where to eat in Mexico City and how to think about the city’s rapidly evolving culinary landscape. He also explores the tension between international restaurants and traditional Mexican cooking, and why travelers should still prioritize tacos, antojitos, and the street foods that define the city’s flavor.

Along the way, Bill shares practical travel tips: the best neighborhoods to stay in, how to navigate Mexico City’s massive geography, and why chasing influencer hotspots can mean missing the real food culture.

If you’re planning a trip to CDMX, or just want to understand one of the most exciting food cities in the world, this episode is your guide.

Restaurants discussed include Pujol, Quintonil, Rosetta, Sud 777, Máximo Bistrot, Carmela y Sal, Jacinta Comedor, Siembra Tortillería, Tikuchi, Expendio de Maíz Sin Nombre, and more.

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In partnership with MVA.wine - a different kind of wine club offering you access to rare wines that usually never leave their country. First 20 people to sign up receive $50 off their first collection. Use code "LAFOOD" at check-out.

On this episode of Taqueando, Bill Esparza heads back to Tijuana to talk with one of the most quietly influential chefs in modern Mexican cuisine: Chef Guillermo “Oso” Campos.

If you’ve eaten modern tacos anywhere in the last decade—from taco omakases to Baja-inspired tasting menus—you’re tasting the ripple effects of what Oso started on the streets of Tijuana with Tacos Kokopelli. In this conversation, Oso tells the story behind his journey from hitchhiking Mexico’s Pacific coast as a teenager to staging at a Michelin-starred restaurant in the Netherlands, and eventually launching one of the most creative taco stands in Mexico.

Bill and Oso dig into the philosophy behind modern tacos, the rise of Tijuana as one of Mexico’s most exciting food cities, and the decade-long run of Oso’s restaurant Tras Horizonte. They also talk about how street tacos became a canvas for culinary creativity and how Baja continues to shape the future of Mexican food.

Plus, Oso shares his favorite places to eat in Tijuana right now including the best birria, carne asada, tortas, ceviche, and tacos across the city.

Also in this episode: Bill shares an incredible backyard Argentine parrilla night featuring wines from MVA — a curated wine discovery platform sourcing small-production bottles from around the world.

👉 Listener offer: The first 20 people to sign up using code LAFOOD get $50 off their first collection.

Also, to learn more about El Encanto in Santa Barbara, click here.

If you care about tacos, Baja cuisine, or the future of Mexican food, this episode is essential listening.

Produced by Robert Haleblian

This week on Taqueando, Bill Esparza and Producer Rob kick things off with a raw, unfiltered conversation about Mexico, violence, and the uncomfortable hypocrisy behind how Americans talk about cartel chaos while fueling the very systems that sustain it.

From there, the mood shifts to Los Angeles food culture as Bill pulls back the curtain on The New York Times’ “25 Essential LA Dishes” list — what it gets right, what it reveals about the city, and why lists like this still matter.

Then, the main event: a deep dive into carne asada. Bill breaks down the origins, regional traditions, and craft behind one of Mexico’s most beloved culinary expressions, explaining why most LA versions miss the mark. From Sonora to Tijuana, Monterrey to Mexicali, this is a masterclass in steak, smoke, tortillas, and what truly makes carne asada culture exceptional.

If you love tacos, food history, or spirited debates about LA dining, this episode delivers heat.

Produced by Robert Haleblian

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