Don’t Mess With the Bolillo: Edgar Núñez on Bread, Identity, and Mexican Food

On this episode of Taqueando, Bill Esparza sits down with Edgar Núñez, chef-owner of Sud 777, for a wide-ranging conversation that moves from breaking food-culture controversy to one of the most thoughtful culinary careers in Mexico City.

The episode opens with a deep dive into the viral backlash sparked by a British baker’s comments dismissing Mexico’s “bread culture” and the beloved bolillo. Edgar unpacks why those remarks struck such a nerve, touching on culinary identity, cultural memory, gentrification, and who gets to define value in Mexican food. It is a candid, nuanced response from a chef who has spent his career navigating both global influence and local responsibility.

From there, Edgar traces his own trajectory from working at Noma to shaping the singular vision of Sud 777. He talks about how his cuisine has evolved, his philosophy around technique versus tradition, and why Mexican food does not need European validation to be great. The conversation also digs into influencers, social media, and the tension between visibility and substance in today’s dining culture.

To close, Edgar shares where he actually likes to eat in Mexico City, from everyday favorites to places that still excite him as a chef. Equal parts timely debate, personal journey, and essential listening for anyone thinking seriously about Mexican cuisine today.

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