May means one thing in the fashion world: The Met Gala, which this year takes place on Monday, May 5. The ultimate red-carpet event, nicknamed “fashion’s biggest night,” raises funds for The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute and marks the opening of its spring exhibit, “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style,” which is based on Monica L. Miller’s 2009 book, Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity. The exhibition also draws on Zora Neale Hurston’s “Characteristics of Negro Expression,” found in her You Don’t Know Us Negroes and Other Essays collection, in its exploration of Black dandy style.
This year’s Gala is hosted by co-chairs Pharrell Williams, Lewis Hamilton, Colman Domingo, and A$AP Rocky, with LeBron James serving as an honorary chair. For the first time, the Gala also has a host committee—including Simone Biles, Usher, Janelle Monáe, Edward Enninful, Dapper Dan, Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie, and more—who are expected to attend. The theme for the evening is “Tailored for You,” inspired by the exhibition’s focus on menswear and suiting, and we can’t wait to see how the A-list lineup interprets the theme on the red carpet.
To get in the spirit, check out our list of the very best fashion memoirs and nonfiction in audio, focusing first on authors who exemplify or explore the notion of Black dandyism in their works or aesthetics. Listen in style! —Audible Editors Kat and Yvonne
The best fashion memoirs
Back in the ’80s, Dapper Dan’s influential Harlem boutique was a magnet for rappers, athletes, and gangsters eager to “outfly” each other in his custom designer-logo remixes. In his acclaimed memoir, the elder statesman of style reflects on growing up poor, dabbling in drugs, and hustling dice before a trip to a Liberian tailor—he was in Africa for the Rumble in the Jungle—became his lightbulb moment. From being jailed with one of Malcolm X’s assassins to outfitting hip-hop legends and having his shop raided by a young lawyer named Sonia Sotomayor, the historical context is significant. So is the fashion and the compelling narration by actor and poet Omari Hardwick.
According to Law Roach, image architect par excellence, the secret to iconic style is confidence. Known for working his magic with clients such as Zendaya, Celine Dion, and Anya Taylor-Joy, Roach is at the top of his game. In this audiobook, he generously shares with listeners tips and tricks to high, show-stopping style. He also takes us back to his beginnings on the South Side of Chicago and to being honored, twice, with The Hollywood Reporter’s Stylist of the Year award. This is the kind of book that isn’t over when it’s over, serving as an ultimate reference to creating outstanding style.
Along with Slaves to Fashion, fashion fans will want to pop this hotly anticipated preorder into their libraries for later this summer. With Make It Ours, Pulitzer Prize-winning journalist Robin Givhan gives the late Virgil Abloh his due with this groundbreaking chronicle of his iconic rise to the top of the fashion industry. From his high-end streetwear line, Off-White, to his appointment to head of menswear for Louis Vuitton, making him the first Black designer to serve as artistic director in the brand’s 164-year history, the visionary Abloh is revealed to spellbinding effect in this mesmerizing biography.
Edward Enninful is one of the most impressive creative forces of the 21st century. The Ghanaian-born editor and stylist became the first Black person to head up any of the Vogue titles when he was named editor-in-chief of British Vogue in 2017. But he was always destined for great things—at just 18, he became the fashion editor of the influential i-D Magazine in London. Along the way, he created major campaigns for fashion houses such as Dolce & Gabbana. In his memoir, which he reads himself, he generously gives credit to those who have helped him, as he in turn does for others.
André Leon Talley looms large in fashion as its first major Black editor, in a career that started at Andy Warhol’s Factory and crested with his legendary run as Anna Wintour’s righthand man at Vogue. (Speaking of Anna, journalist Amy Odell’s biography is the definitive look at the brains behind the bob.) Billed as a scandalous tell-all, dripping with boldface names and fabulous clothes, his memoir is that and more. But it’s also the story of a Black man from the American South whose entry into fashion was tainted by racism, ageism, and sexual abuse. Talley’s commanding narration will transport you to Paris runways and sweaty nightclubs, even if you listen while doing dishes or cleaning out a less-than-glamorous closet.
If you’ve never heard a fashion memoir, this is the one to start with. Even if you know very little about the larger-than-life designer, talk-show host, and TV celebrity Isaac Mizrahi, the man will win you over instantly with his flair for describing outfits as though each one is the single most important ingredient of a film auteur’s masterpiece. Outlining his experiences growing up gay in a Syrian Jewish Orthodox family, his journey into the upper reaches of fashion and high society, and his battles with weight, insomnia, and depression, Mizrahi’s wonderfully frenetic narration is the icing on the cake.
Style muse, actress, and social media master Julia Fox reliably serves some of the best looks of Fashion Week, whether from the runway or the front row. And just like her subversive fits, her 2023 memoir defies expectations. Exquisitely vulnerable and eloquent, Down the Drain traces her journey from a turbulent childhood split between Italy and New York, to working as a dominatrix, to navigating mental illness and toxic relationships, to supporting her son as a single mom. Narrated by the Uncut Gems star herself, it’s a powerful reminder that behind the glamour, Fox’s provocative presentation has deep roots.
As Phil Knight’s legendary biography attests, the path to building an internationally renowned business is far from linear. The Nike founder started his empire with neither massive capital nor a star-studded board of directors—instead, he took a $50 loan from his father and sold sneakers from his car. But this is not the typical rags-to-riches story of one man’s meteoric rise to success. Shoe Dog is a grounded portrayal of the realities of entrepreneurship that brings the listener through the failures, missteps, and heartache involved in starting a business. It’s brought to life by the performance of Norbert Leo Butz, described by one listener as “one of the best narrators I’ve ever had the pleasure of listening to.”
Multihyphenate tastemaker Emily Ratajkowski may be the ultimate style icon, but My Body shows she is also a writer, thinker, and feminist force to be reckoned with. A key advocate for changing the conversation around fame and boundaries, EmRata harnesses an exceptionally candid and provocative voice in essays that explore the fetishization and commodification of women and girls, building on her own experience as an object of beauty, scrutiny, desire, and abuse. Listener Jance notes, “She narrates the books beautifully—her tone and emotion are just right. She’s so vulnerable in this book.”
In Pat in the City, Patricia Field describes her journey from scrappy Queens kid peddling men’s pants to becoming fashion’s most notorious renegade. The daughter of immigrant parents, Field learned the principles of glamour from her entrepreneurial mother, and applied her NYU lessons on democracy to inform a style ethos that would reach millions. From her Studio 54 disco-glam looks to her award-winning work in The Devil Wears Prada, Sex and the City, and Emily in Paris, Field’s inimitable styling pushed the envelope and created trends that became the cultural standard. Now in her 70s, Field is ready to tell her story—not to take a final bow, but to spread her credo of challenging convention and filling the world with joy and dancing.
To tuck or not to tuck? For most of history that was the question, and it took Tan France to finally give the definitive answer. If the French tuck, a half-in/half-out feat of chic nonchalance, was France’s only contribution to fashion, his legacy would still be assured. But the Queer Eye style maven and South Asian gay icon has plenty more charm up his perfectly tailored sleeve, and his memoir is chock-full of proof. Guided by the author’s endearing narration, Naturally Tan chronicles his rise to fame from a religious household in South Yorkshire to Next in Fashion household name with humor, heart, and style to spare.
The best fashion nonfiction
As ambitious as it is engaging, Sofi Thanhauser’s sweeping history of clothing is a must-listen for anyone interested in the past, present, and future of fashion. For all our modern marvels, most of today’s most fetching garments are still made the old-fashioned way: with needles, thread, and fabric. And yet for the first time in history, it is now more expensive to make your clothes than to buy them. Through the lens of five textiles—linen, cotton, silk, synthetics, and wool—Thanhuaser guides listeners through 500 years of fashion history, from couture-worthy opulence to industrial fast fashion, in this brilliant synthesis of what we wear and who we are.
Seasoned journalist Dana Thomas, a former style writer for The Washington Post and a correspondent for Newsweek in Paris, never intended to devote her career to fashion. But she soon realized how influential the industry is in global culture, business, and politics, and luckily for us, she kept her eye on the ball. Her follow-up to the modern classic Deluxe is Fashionopolis, which counters its meticulous accounting of the garment industry’s legendary waste and planned obsolescence with an inspiring exploration of the grassroots movement fighting to reform it. From visionary designers to cutting-edge tech, Fashionopolis points to a sustainable, global model for fashion’s future. It’s all very demure, very mindful, as the kids say.
Once upon a time, to walk into a department store was to walk into a wonder world of fashion and beauty, tapping into women's desires of obtaining unmatched style. Enter three women—Hortense Odlum of Bonwit Teller, Dorothy Shaver of Lord & Taylor, and Geraldine Stutz of Henri Bendel. Maybe men owned the buildings but inside these walls these women ruled and knew how to serve up what well-heeled customers wanted, style at any cost and the ultimate in shopping experiences, from dining to luxuriating in spa treatments. Filled with great stories and anecdotes, this audiobook exemplifies the power of style and those behind it.
The best books pass on an obsession, and Silk does just that. Writer and biologist Aarathi Prasad grew up admiring her Indian mother’s silk saris; later, her work in science led her to research cutting-edge applications of the fabric in regenerative medicine. Not just the world’s most beautiful, sensuous, and coveted textile, silk is a culturally significant and surprisingly strong material that also proves mysterious and multifaceted. Tracing continents and millennia, from indigenous expertise to colonial appropriation, Prasad explores silk’s vast potential and fascinating history in this captivating listen, beautifully read by British performer Hannah Curtis.
It's hard to believe that Bobby Kim and Ben Shenassafar's pioneering streetwear empire, The Hundreds, is 20 years old, especially when the multimedia brand's influence and DIY ethos continues to reverberate across the culture, from sold-out block parties and food festivals to limited-edition collaborations. In his sui generis memoir, This Is Not a T-Shirt, Bobby Hundreds tells the story of the brand his way—in his own charismatic voice and with the spirit of Southern California culture pulsing through his visionary testament to the history and future of streetwear.
Set against the backdrop of the COVID-19 pandemic, lifelong knitter and beloved writer Peggy Orenstein chronicles her sheepish adventures in wool in this charming memoir. Unraveling follows the painstaking endeavor of crafting a sweater from scratch, including shearing the sheep to harvest her own yarn, in this moving testament to the value of cozying up with discomfort. As delivered in Orenstein’s charismatic reading, Unraveling might convince even the most clumsy of knitters that we can make something beautiful, no matter how tangled up in a mess we become along the way.
In fashion, sooner or later, everything old is new again. This season that means capri pants, kitten heels, and, in sociology circles, René Girard. The late French critic and social theorist has become eerily relevant of late, with tremendous interest in his ideas on trends and human longing. In Wanting, Luke Burgis builds on Girard’s theory of mimetic desire, which posits that, rather than desiring anything independently, we simply want what other people want. Understanding the mechanisms behind the powerful yet hidden influence of imitation will benefit both fashion professionals and anyone seeking to better understand the psychology of shopping and consumption, with many tactical insights and aha moments within.
Produced and hosted by Avery Trufelman, this beloved podcast digs into the clothing we traditionally wear—and why we wear it—across different occasions and eras. The series investigates everything from plaid, corduroy, and latex to the rage-making injustice of pockets, with an 8-part series on preppy style called “American Ivy” (start with Chapter 1) that is required fashion-history listening. Filled with fascinating tidbits, Articles of Interest is perfect for anyone curious about the fashion traditions we rarely question.