What do you get when you mix Olympic-level surf obsession, the birth of Venice’s Zephyr team, and decades spent documenting wave riding’s wild history? Matt Warshaw, obviously.

In this episode, I chat with a personal hero of mine—Matt Warshaw, author of The Encyclopedia of Surfing and History of Surfing—about growing up alongside Jay Adams, why he’s a reluctant podcast guest, and why surfing was never really fun for him, but always addictive, strategic, and soul-consuming.

We also get into the overlooked role women played in board design, the radical act of smiling in the lineup, and how EOS came together on a prayer and a pile of favors. Plus, the moment Matt decided to quit surfing altogether.

This one’s got everything: 10-foot swell, tangled leashes, underwater panic, surprise jellyfish, and a boat that went fishing instead of lifeguarding. In today’s episode, Di recounts an unforgettable surf at Popoyo’s infamous break “Dairy Queen”—where confidence is tested, calm is hard-earned, and Big Girl Panties must be summoned again and again. It’s a story about fear, resilience, and remembering that sometimes… you really do have to get crushed to crush it.

Volume = flotation = better pop-ups. Simple, right? Not when no one tells you that! In this episode, I break down one of the most misunderstood parts of beginner surfboards: volume. From my first 7'6" epoxy Bic (zero clue how many liters) to the Guild Factor formula that changed everything, we talk ratios, mistakes, and why your board might be sabotaging your progress. Plus: bonus tips for wetsuits, wave size, and what “bikini-forward waters” even means.