What do you get when you mix Olympic-level surf obsession, the birth of Venice’s Zephyr team, and decades spent documenting wave riding’s wild history? Matt Warshaw, obviously.

In this episode, I chat with a personal hero of mine—Matt Warshaw, author of The Encyclopedia of Surfing and History of Surfing—about growing up alongside Jay Adams, why he’s a reluctant podcast guest, and why surfing was never really fun for him, but always addictive, strategic, and soul-consuming.

We also get into the overlooked role women played in board design, the radical act of smiling in the lineup, and how EOS came together on a prayer and a pile of favors. Plus, the moment Matt decided to quit surfing altogether.

This one’s got everything: 10-foot swell, tangled leashes, underwater panic, surprise jellyfish, and a boat that went fishing instead of lifeguarding. In today’s episode, Di recounts an unforgettable surf at Popoyo’s infamous break “Dairy Queen”—where confidence is tested, calm is hard-earned, and Big Girl Panties must be summoned again and again. It’s a story about fear, resilience, and remembering that sometimes… you really do have to get crushed to crush it.

Volume = flotation = better pop-ups. Simple, right? Not when no one tells you that! In this episode, I break down one of the most misunderstood parts of beginner surfboards: volume. From my first 7'6" epoxy Bic (zero clue how many liters) to the Guild Factor formula that changed everything, we talk ratios, mistakes, and why your board might be sabotaging your progress. Plus: bonus tips for wetsuits, wave size, and what “bikini-forward waters” even means.

When you think "surfer," you might picture someone lean, tanned, and impossibly graceful. But out in the real world—and the real lineup—surfers come in every shape, size, and age. In this episode, we unpack the insecurities, stereotypes, gear barriers, and fatphobia that often keep average-bodied people out of the water. From wetsuit struggles to surf school shortcomings to quiet confidence-building wins, this one’s a love letter to every surfer who’s ever asked: Can I really do this in the body I’m in? (Spoiler: Yes. You can.)

In this episode, we dive into the frothy, photo-filtered world of surf influencers—aka surfluencers. Why does the surf community have such a love-hate relationship with them? From beginner surfers scoring brand deals to perfectly curated “ripping” content that doesn’t quite match the reality, we explore the outrage, the eye-rolls, and the economics behind it all. Whether you love them, loathe them, or are one of them, this one’s for you.

Mavericks. Cold water, monster waves, and a history as wild as the surf itself. In this episode, we head to Half Moon Bay, California, to talk about one of the world’s most infamous big wave breaks—from its discovery by Jeff Clark, who surfed it solo for 15 years, to that time I (awkwardly) reminded Gerard Butler he almost died there. We unpack the legends, the wave mechanics, the cinematic flops (Chasing Mavericks, I’m looking at you), and the near-mythical 108-foot ride of Alessandro "Alo" Slebir. Mavericks is cold, dangerous, and undeniably iconic—and somehow, still not the wave every surfer dreams of. Until now.

Weligama means “sandy village” in Sinhala, and that pretty much sums it up: long, soft waves, warm tropical water, and the ultimate surf-for-everyone energy. In this episode, we break down what makes Weligama one of the best beginner surf destinations in Asia—from its forgiving beach break and all-day boardshort temps, to the booming surf camp scene and solo-traveler-friendly vibe. Come for the waves, stay for the smoothie bowls... and watch out for rogue soft-tops.

At 43, Lauren Cabanel Frazer called herself an out-of-shape, middle-aged woman who had no business surfing. But that didn’t stop her from signing up for a surf camp in Maine—and falling head over heels in love with the waves. This is a story of hesitation, heartbreak, and hard-won joy. Of surf trips gone sideways, winter sessions in freezing water, and finding the kind of surf buddy who quietly changes your life. It’s not about standing up on the board. It’s about standing up for yourself.