Fresh off a flight from the ZDHC Impact Day in The Netherlands, John Mowbray gives a quick overview of the talking points at this week’s Amsterdam event to Philip Berman for a short 'from our own correspondent' edition of Ecotextile Talks.

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In this episode of Ecotextile Talks our host, Philip Berman, is joined by Shivam Gusain a former innovation analyst at Fashion For Good, and now an independent consultant and writer.

The conversation was inspired by his recent substack post entitled: 'Crash Testing the Circular Economy.' in which he argues that we should investe in 'failure', not just success, to reveal the real boundaries of textile-to-textile recycling.

Drawing on his experience across industry, engineering, and business, Shivam discusses with Philip what we can learn from other industries, and challenges us to reconsider where our money, attention, and optimism are best spent.

Listen in as Shivam asks some tough questions every apparel and textile industry professional should be considering.

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Previous stories on the topic

Renewcell troubles:

https://www.ecotextile.com/2024032648446/news/features/renewcell-when-risk-doesn-t-equal-reward/

For more news and analysis, visit our website at ecotextile.com.

Shivam's substack

Contact & Feedback

For questions, feedback, or to suggest a guest, email philip@larchmontfilms.com

In this episode, host Philip Berman sits down with Dr Talia Hussain, whose recent academic paper on circular fashion sparked lively debate across the industry.

Dr Hussain, a PhD in design innovation and MBA, is known for her critical analysis on the mainstream circular fashion narrative.

Together, they take a deep dive into the promises—and potential pitfalls—of circularity in the textile sector, with a particular focus on the influential 2017 Ellen MacArthur Foundation (EMF) and its A New Textiles Economy: Redesigning fashion’s future report.

Key Topics Discussed

The EMF’s $460 Billion Claim

Dr Hussain questions the widely cited figure from the EMF report, its assumptions and real-world implications for industry revenues and the potential size of the reuse sector.

She explains why she thinks greater scrutiny is needed when using such reports to drive regulation, and discusses what gets overlooked when focusing solely on circular models.

Further Reading & Resources

Dr Talia Hussain’s academic paper:

The Emperor’s old clothes: a critical review of circular fashion in gray literature

The Ellen MacArthur Foundations 2017 Report:

A New Textiles Economy: Redesigning fashion’s future

How to Listen & Subscribe

Ecotextile Talks is available on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Amazon Music, and wherever you listen to podcasts.

For more news and analysis, visit our website at ecotextile.com.

Contact & Feedback

For questions, feedback, or to suggest a guest, email philip@larchmontfilms.com

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In light of their 2024 Annual and Sustainability Report, Philip Berman catches up with Krishna Manda, Lenzing’s VP corporate sustainability, and Thomas Matiz, Lenzing’s global product sustainability lead, to chat about Lenzing's GHG emissions reporting, what is needed to achieve net-zero, and how Lenzing supports its customers and partners in achieving its climate goals.

If you want to trace Lenzing's sustainability journey via Ecotextile Talks - do please check out our previous episodes featuring Lenzing guests:

2023

Viscose Voyages - uncovering Lenzing's plans in Indonesia

Inside the minds of sustainable shoppers

2022

How Timberland and Lenzing tackled traceability

How Lenzing has its sights set on a zero carbon target

2021

Why Lenzing is big on biodegradability

2020

Textile fibre traceability - is blockchain the answer?

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Host Philip Berman talks to Maxine Bedat, Executive Director at New Standard Institute, the official sponsor of the Fashion Environmental Accountability Act, a new bill introduced into the California State Assembly at the start of February 2025 which, if enacted, would become the first law in the country to require brands to engage in “environmental due diligence” concerning their products and supply chains.

This Californian Bill is essentially the same as the 'New York Fashion Act' which was introduced into the New York State legislature in 2022 - though it’s not yet law - and which is also backed by Maxine, The New Standard Institute and a broad coalition of industry folk including influential names such as, Rothys, Everlane, Reformation, Eileen Fisher, Patagoina, ThredUp, Circ, Vestiaire Collective, Stella McCartney, Ganni, Faherty, Cotopaxi, NRDC, Sierra Club, Canopy, Trove, EVRNU, American Academy of Pediatrics. Full list at thefashionact.org

Maxine talks about both bills, their purpose, what stage they have reached in the legislative process. what it’s like trying to push through groundbreaking legislation in two states on opposite sides of the US, simultaneously, whether her work has become harder with President Trump in the White House, and how she manages to build broad support with politicians of all persuasions.

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What's the best way to Net Zero?

In this episode of Ecotextile Talks, host Philip Berman explores the pathway to net zero in the textile industry with Pauline Op de Beeck, Climate Portfolio Director at the Apparel Impact Institute, and wet processing expert and Ecotextile News contributor Phil Patterson

They discuss the newly released: "Low Carbon Thermal Energy Roadmap" which provides guidance on how the textile industry can reach net zero by 2040, with a particular focus on electrification and renewable energy adoption in major textile manufacturing countries.

Key Topics Discussed

> The thermal energy challenge in textile manufacturing, where 80% of energy consumption is thermal energy primarily generated by burning fossil fuels

>The importance of electrification as the ultimate path to net zero, with proper timing being crucial

>Analysis of five key textile producing countries: China, India, Vietnam, Bangladesh, and Indonesia

>Forecasting when facilities should transition to electric technologies based on renewable energy availability and cost

>The dangers of premature electrification before renewable energy is sufficiently available

>The new industry benchmarking tool being developed to help brands and manufacturers track energy uses and emissions.

More details of the Apparel Impact Institute's Climate Solutions Portfolio grant applications open until March 31, 2025

Host Philip Berman discusses the findings of a groundbreaking 2024 study on the problem of plastic leakage in the textile industry with one of its co-authors Dr. Jesse Daystar, Cotton Incorporated's Vice President and Chief Sustainability Officer, and Dr. Patricia Holden, Bren School of Environmental Science and Management at the University of California, Santa Barbara.

We reveal just how significant the fashion industry's contribution to global plastic pollution is, explore potential solutions and discuss the broader implications for sustainability in fashion.

Other studies mentioned in the podcast:

The Effect of Denim Fabric as a Feedstock in Large Scale Composting of Manure/Bedding and Food Scraps

Microfibers generated from the laundering of cotton, rayon and polyester based fabrics and their aquatic biodegradation

Impact of dyes and finishes on the aquatic biodegradability of cotton textile fibers and microfibers released on laundering clothes

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Or visit our Ecotextile News website to find out more on this issue.

Host Philip Berman explores the fascinating world of biogenic carbon storage in cotton garments with Dr. Richard Venditti, from North Carolina State University, Steve Pires from Cotton Incorporated, and Emily Graham from Carhartt.

Together, they delve into the climate benefits of cotton and how it can play a crucial role in the textile industry's sustainability efforts.

We cover the following topics

• Biogenic Carbon Storage: how cotton garments can act as temporary carbon sinks, reducing greenhouse gas emissions and mitigating climate change.
• Dynamic vs. Static Life Cycle Assessment: an explanation and discussion of dynamic LCAs, how they account for the timing of emissions, and how it can reveal a more accurate picture of cotton's environmental impact.
• Sustainability Strategies: a discussion on some of the practical ways to extend the life of cotton garments

Link to the 2024 study (from the Bioresources journal) we discuss in depth in the podcast:

Evaluating cotton apparel with dynamic life cycle assessment assessment: The climate benefits of temporary biogenic carbon storage

For more information about Cotton Incorporated

Find out more about our daily news website and pioneering printed magazine Ecotextile News at: www.ecotextile.com that's been reporting on environmental and social issues in fashion and textile supply chains since 2006.