In this episode, host Philip Berman sits down with Dr Talia Hussain, whose recent academic paper on circular fashion sparked lively debate across the industry.

Dr Hussain, a PhD in design innovation and MBA, is known for her critical analysis on the mainstream circular fashion narrative.

Together, they take a deep dive into the promises—and potential pitfalls—of circularity in the textile sector, with a particular focus on the influential 2017 Ellen MacArthur Foundation (EMF) and its A New Textiles Economy: Redesigning fashion’s future report.

Key Topics Discussed

The EMF’s $460 Billion Claim

Dr Hussain questions the widely cited figure from the EMF report, its assumptions and real-world implications for industry revenues and the potential size of the reuse sector.

She explains why she thinks greater scrutiny is needed when using such reports to drive regulation, and discusses what gets overlooked when focusing solely on circular models.

Further Reading & Resources

Dr Talia Hussain’s academic paper:

The Emperor’s old clothes: a critical review of circular fashion in gray literature

The Ellen MacArthur Foundations 2017 Report:

A New Textiles Economy: Redesigning fashion’s future

How to Listen & Subscribe

Ecotextile Talks is available on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Amazon Music, and wherever you listen to podcasts.

For more news and analysis, visit our website at ecotextile.com.

Contact & Feedback

For questions, feedback, or to suggest a guest, email philip@larchmontfilms.com

In light of their 2024 Annual and Sustainability Report, Philip Berman catches up with Krishna Manda, Lenzing’s VP corporate sustainability, and Thomas Matiz, Lenzing’s global product sustainability lead, to chat about Lenzing's GHG emissions reporting, what is needed to achieve net-zero, and how Lenzing supports its customers and partners in achieving its climate goals.

If you want to trace Lenzing's sustainability journey via Ecotextile Talks - do please check out our previous episodes featuring Lenzing guests:

2023

Viscose Voyages - uncovering Lenzing's plans in Indonesia

Inside the minds of sustainable shoppers

2022

How Timberland and Lenzing tackled traceability

How Lenzing has its sights set on a zero carbon target

2021

Why Lenzing is big on biodegradability

2020

Textile fibre traceability - is blockchain the answer?

Subscribe to Ecotextile Talks podcasts on Apple, Spotify and Amazon Music or have a look around our complete podcast archive here.

Host Philip Berman talks to Maxine Bedat, Executive Director at New Standard Institute, the official sponsor of the Fashion Environmental Accountability Act, a new bill introduced into the California State Assembly at the start of February 2025 which, if enacted, would become the first law in the country to require brands to engage in “environmental due diligence” concerning their products and supply chains.

This Californian Bill is essentially the same as the 'New York Fashion Act' which was introduced into the New York State legislature in 2022 - though it’s not yet law - and which is also backed by Maxine, The New Standard Institute and a broad coalition of industry folk including influential names such as, Rothys, Everlane, Reformation, Eileen Fisher, Patagoina, ThredUp, Circ, Vestiaire Collective, Stella McCartney, Ganni, Faherty, Cotopaxi, NRDC, Sierra Club, Canopy, Trove, EVRNU, American Academy of Pediatrics. Full list at thefashionact.org

Maxine talks about both bills, their purpose, what stage they have reached in the legislative process. what it’s like trying to push through groundbreaking legislation in two states on opposite sides of the US, simultaneously, whether her work has become harder with President Trump in the White House, and how she manages to build broad support with politicians of all persuasions.

Subscribe to Ecotextile Talks podcasts on Apple, Spotify and Amazon Music or have a look around our complete podcast archive here.