Summary
Into Thin Air, Jon Krakauer's gripping 1997 nonfiction epic, recounts the harrowing events of the 1996 Mount Everest disaster. As both a participant and a journalist, Krakauer provides a firsthand account of the deadliest climbing season in Everest's history, where eight climbers lost their lives in a single day. The author's vivid prose and meticulous reporting offer readers a visceral experience of the extreme conditions and life-or-death decisions faced by climbers on the world's highest peak. His narrative also explores the ethical questions surrounding the commercialization of Everest expeditions. Acclaimed as “a harrowing tale of the perils of high-altitude climbing … and of heartbreaking heroism” (People), Into Thin Air became a national bestseller and sparked ongoing debates within the mountaineering community about safety, responsibility, and the true nature of adventure.
Plot
As a journalist for Outside magazine, Jon Krakauer joined a commercial expedition led by experienced guide Rob Hall to report on the growing commercialization of Everest climbs. What began as a professional assignment soon became a personal quest for Krakauer to reach the summit. Into Thin Air shares his experience of the 1996 Mount Everest disaster.
On May 10, 1996, Krakauer achieved his goal, but his triumph would prove short-lived. As he begins his descent from Everest’s summit, he notices ominous clouds gathering in the sky. Exhausted and oxygen-deprived, Krakauer manages to make it back to his tent, unaware of the tragedy unfolding above him.
A violent storm engulfs the mountain, trapping several climbers near the summit. Rob Hall and Scott Fischer, leaders of two separate expeditions, find themselves and their clients in a desperate struggle for survival. Despite heroic rescue attempts, five climbers perished in the brutal conditions. The following morning, Krakauer learns of the devastating losses and the ongoing battle for survival faced by his fellow mountaineers.
In the aftermath of the disaster, Krakauer grapples with survivor's guilt and seeks to understand what went wrong. He examines the decisions made by experienced guides, the impact of commercialization on Everest expeditions, and the inherent risks of high-altitude climbing. Into Thin Air provides a gripping, firsthand account of one of the deadliest seasons in Everest's history, offering readers an unflinching look at the perils of extreme mountaineering.
Themes
Danger and risk of high-altitude mountaineering
Commercialization of Mount Everest
Human ambition and hubris
Decision-making under extreme conditions
Responsibility and leadership in crisis situations
Physical and psychological effects of high altitude
Ethical dilemmas in life-or-death situations
Setting
The events depicted in Into Thin Air take place in the mid-1990s, specifically during the ill-fated 1996 Mount Everest climbing season. This era marked a turning point in high-altitude mountaineering, as commercial expeditions to the world's highest peak were becoming increasingly popular and controversial.
The book's setting is primarily the Himalayan region of Nepal and Tibet, with a focus on Mount Everest itself. Jon Krakauer vividly describes the various camps along the ascent, from the bustling Base Camp to the perilous higher camps, culminating in the oxygen-starved environment of the Death Zone above 26,000 feet.
Specific locations featured prominently include the treacherous Khumbu Icefall, the windswept South Col, and the summit ridge. The narrative also touches on the nearby Sherpa villages and the Nepali capital of Kathmandu, providing context for the mountaineering culture and the broader socioeconomic factors influencing Everest expeditions.
Characters
Jon Krakauer: The author and narrator. An experienced climber and journalist who joined Rob Hall's expedition to report on the commercialization of Everest. Krakauer provides a firsthand account of the 1996 Everest disaster, detailing his own experiences and observations. His presence on the mountain as both a climber and a reporter offers a unique perspective on the events that unfolded.
Rob Hall: The leader of the Adventure Consultants expedition. A highly respected New Zealand mountaineer who had successfully guided numerous clients to the summit of Everest. Hall was known for his cautious approach and emphasis on safety. His decision to continue pushing for the summit despite deteriorating weather conditions played a crucial role in the disaster.
Scott Fischer: The leader of the Mountain Madness expedition. An American climber known for his strength and charisma. Fischer's more relaxed leadership style contrasted with Hall's strict approach. Like Hall, Fischer also perished on the mountain during the 1996 disaster.
Anatoli Boukreev: A guide for Scott Fischer's Mountain Madness team. A highly skilled Russian climber known for his strength and ability to climb without supplemental oxygen. Boukreev's actions during the disaster, including his decision to descend ahead of clients, became a point of controversy in Krakauer's account.
Beck Weathers: A client on Rob Hall's team who was left for dead on the mountain but miraculously survived. Weathers' incredible story of survival became one of the most dramatic elements of the Everest disaster.
Doug Hansen: A postal worker and client on Rob Hall's team. Hansen's determination to reach the summit, despite having failed in a previous attempt, factored into the tragic events on the mountain.
Yasuko Namba: A Japanese climber on Rob Hall's team who became the oldest woman to summit Everest. Namba tragically died during the descent.
Andy Harris: A guide on Rob Hall's team. Harris played a crucial role in the events leading up to the disaster and ultimately perished on the mountain.
Sandy Pittman: A wealthy socialite and client on Scott Fischer's team. Pittman's presence on the mountain and her use of satellite technology to blog about the climb exemplified the commercialization of Everest.
Lopsang Jangbu Sherpa: The lead Sherpa for Scott Fischer's team. His actions and decisions during the climb were scrutinized in the aftermath of the disaster.
Quick facts
Jon Krakauer originally intended to share his account of the 1996 Everest disaster in an article for Outside magazine then decided to expand it into a full-length book.
Into Thin Air was a national bestseller and has sold millions of copies worldwide.
Krakauer donated a significant portion of the book's proceeds to the Everest '96 Memorial Fund, which supports Sherpa families.
Krakauer's vivid descriptions of altitude sickness and hypoxia capture the physical challenges of high-altitude climbing.
Krakauer's experience on Everest left him with post-traumatic stress disorder and survivor's guilt.
Into Thin Air sparked controversy among climbers, particularly regarding Krakauer's portrayal of Russian guide Anatoli Boukreev as reckless.
Krakauer wrote a postscript in later editions addressing some of the criticisms of his account.
In 1997, the book was adapted into a TV movie, Into Thin Air: Death on Everest, starring Peter Horton and Christopher McDonald.
Despite its cautionary tale, Into Thin Air increased interest in climbing Everest.
About the Author
Jon Krakauer (1954) is an acclaimed American author known for his gripping works of nonfiction about outdoor adventures and disasters, controversial social issues, and true crimes. Grounded in meticulous research, his books combine journalistic rigor with a novelist's sense of character and gift for storytelling.
After studying at Hampshire College, Krakauer pursued a career in journalism, writing for publications like Outside magazine. His breakout book Into the Wild, published in 1996, recounted the true story of Christopher McCandless, a young man who abandoned society to live in the Alaskan wilderness. This was followed by Into Thin Air in 1997, a harrowing firsthand account of the 1996 Mount Everest disaster in which eight climbers perished. An avid mountain climber from a young age, Krakauer recounts the ill-fated expedition as a participant and survivor as well as a journalist. Both books became international bestsellers. Krakauer was honored with the Academy Award in Literature from the American Academy of Arts and Letters in 1999.
In Under the Banner of Heaven (2003), Krakauer provides a chilling expose of the messianic delusion, forced polygamy, and savage violence pervading renegade Mormon Fundamentalist communities. In Missoula (2015), he chronicles the searing experience of several woman while attending the University of Montana, shedding arresting light on the national epidemic of rape on college campuses. His work has been adapted into feature films and television series. Though sometimes controversial, Krakauer remains one of the most respected and influential nonfiction authors of his generation.
