Against the Water

A Surfing Champion's Inspirational Journey to Olympic Glory

By: Owen Wright

Narrated by: Barton Welch

Length: 8 hrs and 20 mins

Publisher's summary

The gut-wrenching story of how one of Australia’s finest surfers overcame a brain injury and despair to win an Olympic medal.

On the morning of 10 December 2015, Owen Wright entered the water at Pipeline, Hawaii, determined to become a world champion. But after being pounded by a set of monstrous waves, he ended up fighting for life and facing extensive brain trauma. In this inspirational memoir, Wright chronicles the events leading up to that fateful day, as well as the months and years that followed as he battled to regain basic functioning, and eventually the capacity to compete again at the apex of surfing.

Against the Water carries the reader back to Wright’s boyhood in the tiny town of Culburra, where his father, determined to raise champions, turned family life into a kind of boot camp. While eccentric, his father’s methods bore fruit: the Wrights of Culburra would become Australian surfing royalty. Owen’s story lays bare the complex relationship with his father – the adoration, the fight for independence, the fallings out, and the reconciliations.

Told in a spare, intimate style, Against the Water is the moving account of an athlete who refused to accept that his best days were behind him and raises fundamental questions around family and competition. What, ultimately, is our duty to our children? At what point does bravery become folly? And how much should we sacrifice for the sake of another?

‘Owen was a childhood phenom who grew into the ultimate family man. In between this transition, he took on the world, charged crazy waves, suffered a huge brain injury, and finished off with the all-time sporting comeback!’ Mick Fanning, three-time world champion surfer

‘Whatever it is that Owen is getting himself into, he seems to do it with little to no fear and a massive smile on his face. He’s an inspirational guy, to put it lightly. Owen is one special human!’ Liam Hemsworth, actor

‘Owen Wright has to be the most inspiring person I’ve ever met. His story is one of a childhood prodigy, to facing a near-death experience, to Australian hero . . . This book will inspire and motivate anyone who has had
to face adversity whilst following their dreams.’ Kita Alexander, singer-songwriter

‘[A] true fighter’s spirit!' Luke Rockhold, UFC middleweight champion, two-time jiu-jitsu world champion, three-time strikeforce middleweight champion

©2023 Owen Wright (P)2023 Simon & Schuster Audio

Critic reviews

‘In the middle of the lockdowns, Owen came to stay with us. He had the North American leg of surf tour season and the Olympics right around the corner. Owen’s work ethic was apparent right from the get-go. All the gyms were closed, so Ow went to Walmart and brought home a $50 stationary bike. It was so small and so cheap but, let me tell you, that little bike could go. He would crush ten miles every day, never missing a beat. The mental capacity it took to do that many miles on that small of a bike . . . That’s a true fighter’s spirit! He never once got distracted or made an excuse in a time when everybody was, including myself. So obviously, when he took the bronze at the Olympics, I wasn’t surprised. I took that little Walmart bike and powder coated it bronze. She still sits in my front yard today, like a beautiful little lawn ornament. In memory of Ow and the Olympic dream.’ (Luke Rockhold, UFC middleweight champion, two-time jiu-jitsu world champion, three-time strikeforce middleweight champion)

honest and inspiring

I loved it, and it helped me relate to experiences a few friends have had with head injuries

What a life!

Super inspiring and engaging! The Wright family has nothing to prove, that’s for sure! I loved learning more about the ups and downs, plus the unique aspects of Owen’s life experience. As unique as his life experience is, so much of it is very relatable. Thank you for sharing yourself, O!!

Real & inspiring

Owen’s story is heartfelt and inspiring. We learn, grow and healing through sharing our stories. Owen, thanks for sharing yours.

Thank you for sharing

What a ride.

As a human being, Owen’s story fuels the comeback flame. As an average joe surfer, this was a great look behind the curtains of pro surfing. I hope more surfers throw down audibles of their hero’s journey because it gets the people going. Finished the listen in one day.. straight firing.

- surfer from Toronto, Canada

Truly excellent - exceed expectations and some.

I was gripped and enlightened from the very first words. Owen Wright truly knows what hell looks like as well as incredible heights of joy. He and his families resilience, their incredibly tight bonds, the strength & and an overwhelming love of each other, the ocean and surfing are what keeps their lives moving forward.

LISTEN TO THIS BOOK. His journey with TBI, traumatic brain injury, brings to light the deadly realities of the effects of TBI, as well as awareness & the need for change in the sports that are known to be bone crushing, career and life ending. Fantastic autobiography, loaded with tales of surfing many of the great waves, to becoming an Olympic medalist.
Highly recommend!