Showing results for "Surf Is Where You Find It Gerry Lopez" in All Categories
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Surf Is Where You Find It
- By: Gerry Lopez
- Narrated by: Danny Campbell
- Length: 12 hrs and 28 mins
- Unabridged
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Overall
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Performance
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Story
Written by one of the most revered surfers of his generation, Gerry Lopez's Surf Is Where You Find It is a collection of stories about a lifetime of surfing. But more than that, it is a collection of stories about the lessons learned from surfing. It presents 38 stories about those who have been influential in the sport - surfing anytime, anywhere, and in any way.
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Excellent
- By Amazon Customer on 07-14-19
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Surf Is Where You Find It
- Narrated by: Danny Campbell
- Series: Patagonia
- Length: 12 hrs and 28 mins
- Release date: 04-04-17
- Language: English
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Written by one of the most revered surfers of his generation, Gerry Lopez's Surf Is Where You Find It is a collection of stories about a lifetime of surfing. But more than that, it is a collection of stories about the lessons learned from surfing. It presents 38 stories about those who have been influential in the sport - surfing anytime, anywhere, and in any way.
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For centuries, mariners have spun tales of gargantuan waves, 100-feet high or taller. Until recently scientists dismissed these stories - waves that high would seem to violate the laws of physics. But in the past few decades, as a startling number of ships vanished and new evidence has emerged, oceanographers realized something scary was brewing in the planet’s waters. They found their proof in February 2000, when a British research vessel was trapped in a vortex of impossibly mammoth waves in the North Sea - including several that approached 100 feet.
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Story
Having resolved to master a big - hollow wave - that is, to go from kook (surfese for beginner) to shredder-in a single year, Heller travels from Southern California down the coast of Mexico in the company of his girlfriend and the eccentric surfers they meet. Exuberant and fearless, Heller explores the technique and science of surfing the secrets of its culture, and the environmental ravages to the stunning coastline he visits.
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Narrator....
- By Jimmy P on 12-14-17
By: Peter Heller
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Waterman
- The Life and Times of Duke Kahanamoku
- By: David Davis
- Narrated by: Aaron Killian
- Length: 11 hrs and 13 mins
- Unabridged
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Waterman is the first comprehensive biography of Duke Kahanamoku (1890-1968): swimmer, surfer, Olympic gold medalist, Hawaiian icon, waterman.
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Outstanding
- By Chris on 10-07-18
By: David Davis
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Liferider
- Heart, Body, Soul, and Life Beyond the Ocean
- By: Laird Hamilton, Julian Borra
- Narrated by: Elijah Allan-Blitz, Julian Borra, Gabrielle Reece
- Length: 6 hrs and 32 mins
- Unabridged
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Millions of us increasingly seek happiness in fads and self-help books, reaching upward every day toward some enlightened state that we wish to attain. Surfing icon Laird Hamilton is more intent on looking inward and appreciating the brilliant creatures we already are. In Liferider, Laird uses five key pillars - Death & Fear, Heart, Body, Soul, and Everything Is Connected - to illustrate his unique worldview and life practices. This is Laird Hamilton in his own words - raw, honest, and unvarnished - on topics he has rarely explored before.
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Nothing Earth Shattering
- By Deanmc on 03-27-19
By: Laird Hamilton, and others
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Soul Surfer
- A True Story of Faith, Family, and Fighting to Get Back on the Board
- By: Bethany Hamilton
- Narrated by: Eleni Pappageorge
- Length: 3 hrs and 52 mins
- Unabridged
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She lost her arm in a shark attack and nearly died, but she never lost her faith. Now a major motion picture, Soul Surfer is the moving story of Bethany Hamilton’s triumphant return to competitive surfing and has continued to be a beacon of inspiration to all who hear it. They say Bethany Hamilton has saltwater in her veins. How else could one explain the passion that drives her to surf? Or that nothing - not even the loss of her arm - could come between her and the waves?
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Totally absorbing.
- By Ms. Carrie S. Rostollan on 06-18-14
By: Bethany Hamilton
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No Retreat, No Surrender
- By: Oscar Chalupsky, Graham Spence
- Narrated by: Malcolm Gooding
- Length: 10 hrs
- Unabridged
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Few athletes hold a record comparable to that of Oscar Chalupsky. He made history at the age of fifteen as the first person to win both the Junior and Senior Ironman titles on the same day at the South African National Lifesaving Championships, he was the country’s spokesman at the 1992 Barcelona Olympics, and he is a multiple-times global surfski champion. No Retreat, No Surrender is an uplifting account of grit, perseverance, talent and attitude, vividly capturing the determined mindset of an inspirational sporting legend.
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Amazing guy!
- By Stephanie Siaris on 04-20-24
By: Oscar Chalupsky, and others
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Reports from Hell
- By: Chas Smith
- Narrated by: Peter Berkrot
- Length: 8 hrs and 5 mins
- Unabridged
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A gonzo ride through war-torn Yemen as only Chas Smith, the award-winning author of Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell and Cocaine + Surfing: A Sordid History of Surfing's Greatest Love Affair, could provide. Follow Smith and his misfit band of merrymakers as they search for the true origins of Al Qaeda and endeavor to ride the unsurfed waves of Yemen all while exploring the slim opportunities for fun in the margins of our global war on terror and at any cost - even if it means eventual kidnapping by Hezbollah.
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Incredible
- By Amazon Customer on 07-10-22
By: Chas Smith
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The History of Surfing
- By: Matt Warshaw
- Narrated by: Paul Boehmer
- Length: 30 hrs and 17 mins
- Unabridged
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Matt Warshaw knows more about surfing than any other person on the planet. After five years of research and writing, Warshaw, a former professional surfer and editor of Surfing magazine, has crafted an unprecedented, definitive history of the sport and the culture it has spawned. The History of Surfing reveals and defines this sport with a voice that is authoritative, funny, and wholly original.
By: Matt Warshaw
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Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell
- A True Story of Violence, Corruption, and the Soul of Surfing
- By: Chas Smith, Joan Jett - foreword
- Narrated by: Chas Smith
- Length: 7 hrs and 12 mins
- Unabridged
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Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell is surfer and former war reporter Chas Smith's wild and unflinching look at the high-stakes world of surfing on Oahu's North Shore - a riveting, often humorous, account of beauty, greed, danger, and crime. For two months every winter, when Pacific storms make landfall, swarms of mainlanders, Brazilians, Australians, and Europeans flock to Oahu's paradisiacal North Shore for surfing's Triple Crown competition. Smith reveals how this influx transforms a sleepy strip of coast into a lawless, violent, drug-addled, and adrenaline-soaked mecca.
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Chas Smith is a jerk, but he writes well
- By Kevin Degnan on 12-15-22
By: Chas Smith, and others
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All for a Few Perfect Waves
- The Audacious Life and Legend of Rebel Surfer Miki Dora
- By: David Rensin
- Narrated by: Sean Runnette
- Length: 19 hrs and 33 mins
- Unabridged
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For 20 years, Miki "Da Cat" Dora was the king of Malibu surfers - a dashing, enigmatic rebel who dominated the waves, ruled his peers' imaginations, and who still inspires the fantasies of wannabes to this day. And yet, Dora railed against surfing's sudden post-Gidget popularity and the overcrowding of his once empty waves, even after this avid sportsman, iconoclast, and scammer of wide repute ran afoul of the law and led the FBI on a remarkable seven-year chase around the globe in 1974.
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Overall, kinda what ib expected it to be
- By Michael Murdock on 05-16-22
By: David Rensin
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Caught Inside
- A Surfer’s Year on the California Coast
- By: Daniel Duane
- Narrated by: James Patrick Cronin
- Length: 8 hrs and 25 mins
- Unabridged
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A wondrous, uproarious, and surprisingly informative account of a year spend surfing, Caught Inside marks the arrival of an exuberant new voice of the outdoors. This remarkable narrative of Daniel Duane’s life on the water is enhanced by good-humored explanations of the physics of wave dynamics, the intricate art of surfboard design, and lyrical, sharp-eyed descriptions of the flora and fauna of the Pacific wilderness.
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The Surfer Memoir that Changed Everything
- By Susie on 11-28-12
By: Daniel Duane
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Crazy for the Storm
- By: Norman Ollestad
- Narrated by: Norman Ollestad
- Length: 7 hrs and 38 mins
- Unabridged
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From the age of three, Norman Ollestad was thrust into the world of surfing and competitive downhill skiing by the intense, charismatic father he both idolized and resented. While his friends were riding bikes, playing ball, and going to birthday parties, young Norman was whisked away in pursuit of wild and demanding adventures.
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Riveting!
- By Elizabeth on 06-20-09
By: Norman Ollestad
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Hound of the Sea
- Wild Man. Wild Waves. Wild Wisdom.
- By: Garrett McNamara, Karen Karbo
- Narrated by: Rudy Sanda
- Length: 8 hrs and 27 mins
- Unabridged
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Big-wave surfer Garrett McNamara set the world record for the sport, surfing a 78-foot wave in Nazare, Portugal, in 2011, a record he smashed two years later at the same break. Propelled by the challenge and promise of bigger, more difficult waves, this adrenaline-fueled loner and polarizing figure travels the globe to ride the most dangerous swells the oceans have to offer, from calving glaciers to hurricane swells. But what motivates McNamara to go to such extremes - to risk everything for one thrilling ride?
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Awesome Story and Narration.
- By oregonlife on 10-16-18
By: Garrett McNamara, and others
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Saltwater Buddha
- A Surfer's Quest to Find Zen on the Sea
- By: Jaimal Yogis
- Narrated by: Danny Hughes
- Length: 4 hrs and 30 mins
- Unabridged
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Fed up with teenage life in the suburbs, Jaimal Yogis ran off to Hawaii with little more than a copy of Hermann Hesse's Siddhartha and enough cash for a surfboard. His journey is a coming-of-age saga that takes him from communes to monasteries, from the warm Pacific to the icy New York shore. Equal parts spiritual memoir and surfer's tale, this is a chronicle of finding meditative focus in the barrel of a wave and eternal truth in the great, salty blue.
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RIpoff Audio Recording
- By Tracey on 03-22-19
By: Jaimal Yogis
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Surfing with Sartre
- An Aquatic Inquiry into a Life of Meaning
- By: Aaron James
- Narrated by: Tristan Morris
- Length: 12 hrs and 5 mins
- Unabridged
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The existentialist philosopher Jean-Paul Sartre once declared "the ideal limit of aquatic sports...is waterskiing". The avid surfer and lavishly credentialed academic philosopher Aaron James vigorously disagrees, and in Surfing with Sartre he intends to expound the thinking surfer's view of the matter, in the process elucidating such philosophical categories as freedom, being, phenomenology, morality, epistemology, and even the emerging values of what he terms "leisure capitalism".
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Amazingly entertaining, informative.
- By Chris Smith on 02-08-19
By: Aaron James
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Saltwater in the Blood
- Surfing, Natural Cycles, and the Sea's Power to Heal
- By: Easkey Britton
- Narrated by: Easkey Britton
- Length: 6 hrs and 11 mins
- Unabridged
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A powerful feminist nature writing by the pioneer of women's big wave surfing in Ireland. Easkey Britton provides a rare female perspective on surfing, exploring the mental skills it fosters and the need to recognize the value of the ocean and of nature's cycles in our lives. This is an incredibly inspiring exploration of the sea's role in the wellness of people and the planet, beautifully written by Easkey Britton - surfer, scientist, and social activist. For Easkey, the sea is a source of mental and physical well-being.
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thoughtful read
- By Eileen on 09-11-22
By: Easkey Britton
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Ghost Wave
- The Discovery of Cortes Bank and the Biggest Wave on Earth
- By: Chris Dixon
- Narrated by: Chris Dixon
- Length: 11 hrs and 23 mins
- Unabridged
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Rising from the depths of the North Pacific lies a fabled island, now submerged just 15 feet below the surface of the ocean. Rumors and warnings about Cortes Bank abound, but among big wave surfers, this legendary rock is famous for one simple (and massive) reason: this is the home of the biggest rideable wave on the face of the earth.
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A Surfing Classic of Monster Waves
- By Susie on 01-03-13
By: Chris Dixon
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Cocaine + Surfing
- A Sordid History of Surfing's Greatest Love Affair
- By: Chas Smith
- Narrated by: Tom Pile
- Length: 7 hrs and 19 mins
- Unabridged
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It is likely not terribly surprising that surfers like to party. The 1960-'70s image, bolstered by Tom Wolfe and Big Wednesday, was one of mild outlaws. Tanned boys who refused to grow up, spending their days drinking beer and smoking joints on the beach in between mindless hours in the water. As the surf brands accidentally morphed into a multimillion- then multibillion-dollar industry beginning in the 1980s, however, the derelict portrait began to harm business.
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Narrator is a joke caricature of what the public t
- By Kyle Douglas on 01-13-19
By: Chas Smith
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Rockaway
- Surfing Headlong into a New Life
- By: Diane Cardwell
- Narrated by: Diane Cardwell
- Length: 8 hrs and 9 mins
- Unabridged
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Unmoored by a failed marriage and disconnected from her high-octane life in the city, Diane Cardwell finds herself staring at a small group of surfers coasting through mellow waves toward shore—and senses something shift. Rockaway is the riveting, joyful story of one woman’s reinvention—beginning with Cardwell taking the A train to Rockaway, a neglected spit of land dangling off New York City into the Atlantic Ocean.
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Important lessons
- By Sandra Cookson on 07-14-20
By: Diane Cardwell
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All Our Waves Are Water: Stumbling Toward Enlightenment and the Perfect Ride
- By: Jaimal Yogis
- Narrated by: Danny Hughes
- Length: 6 hrs and 33 mins
- Unabridged
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In this meditative memoir - a compelling fusion of Barbarian Days and the journals of Thomas Merton - the author of Saltwater Buddha reflects on his "failing toward enlightenment," his continued search to find meaning and a greater understanding of grace in the world’s oceans as well as everyday life. Born to a family of seekers, Jaimal Yogis left home at 16 to surf in Hawaii and join a monastery - an adventure he chronicled in Saltwater Buddha. Now, in his early 20s, his heart is broken and he’s lost his way.
By: Jaimal Yogis