Exploring Surfboards & Intentions w/ Cliff Kapono

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In this episode we’ve got Cliff Kapono, a pro surfer and scientist from the Big Island of Hawaii. We speak about his approach to surfing growing up, from riding whatever boards were around to chasing the feeling of freedom and safety in the ocean. We then get into how his relationship with surfing changed over the years, and discuss the concept of chasing waves with inner peace. We also talk about his incredible work studying reef structures and their connection to surf breaks. And finally, Cliff also just came out with an amazing film, Circadian Rhythms, that encapsulates this circular story of his approach and relationship to surfing.

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Chapters 00:48 Paddle Power and Getting More Waves 01:31 Introducing Cliff Kapono and Circadian Rhythms 02:18 Growing Up Surfing on the Big Island 05:23 Boarding School and Weekend Surf Missions 10:15 Surf Culture, Boards, and Early Style 13:11 Surfing as Stability and Escape 16:44 Chasing Feeling Over Performance 18:56 Learning 360s, Airs, and Obsession 21:42 First Sessions at Pipeline 26:01 Stepping Away From Surfing 30:06 Boards as Tools for Feeling 35:44 Letting Go of Validation and Learning Turns 45:07 The Meaning Behind Circadian Rhythms 52:39 Surf Science, Reefs, and What’s Next

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