In this episode of Garmology, Nick heads to Edmonton, Canada, to meet Dylan Lynch — the new custodian of Kluane Mountaineering, a tiny but legendary workshop that’s been making expedition‑grade down jackets and sleeping bags for over 50 years. Dylan shares the brand’s unlikely origins, the almost mythical figure of seamstress Lucy, his own journey from winter camper to clothing‑and‑textile graduate to owner, and the uncompromising philosophy behind “making things properly or not at all.”

It’s a story filled with romance, mentorship, small‑batch craftsmanship, Japanese connections, Paris adventures, devotion to Canadian sourcing, extreme cold, and the joy of doing one thing extremely well—and never selling out.

You can find Kluane Mountaineering on the web at kluanemountaineering.com and on Instagram as @kluanemountaineering

This episode is also available on the Garmology YouTube channel: https://youtu.be/UWmu3gSlNLU

Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmology

Nick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.

Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

In this episode of Garmology, Nick speaks with Professor Amy Twigger‑Holroyd, a designer, researcher, and academic specialising in Alternative Fashion Systems at Nottingham School of Art and Design. Amy shares her path from knitwear design and running a slow‑fashion label to becoming a leading researcher on sustainability, remaking, participatory textile practices, and what she calls fashion fictions.
She explains how mainstream fashion systems limit imagination and reinforce unsustainable consumption—and how speculative, playful “fictional worlds” can help people imagine alternatives.

The conversation explores remaking and mending, the cultural significance of handmade clothing, the psychology of fashion, participatory workshops, the blurring of fictional and real-world practices, and the ways collective imagination can inspire actual change. Nick and Amy also discuss sustainability fatigue, hope, ritual, meaning in clothing, and how fashion might evolve into something more connected, joyful, and human.

Amy is on Instagram as @amytwiggerh

More information about Fashion Fictions fashionfictions.org

The open-access version of the book can be found here.

Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmology

Nick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.

Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

This episode of Garmology features host Nick in conversation with bespoke tailor Duane MacLeod, who lives and works on the coast of Maine.

Duane shares his unconventional journey into sewing and tailoring, beginning with a childhood in a DIY, self-sufficient family and escalating into a lifelong fascination with making things. After years of building houses, reupholstering furniture, and sewing casually, he began making garments seriously when his daughter — then studying fashion — challenged him to make his own coat.

Following early experiments with Japanese pattern books and the online sewing community (especially the influential blog Male Pattern Boldness), Duane slowly developed his skills and eventually became deeply interested in tailoring.

This led him to the Tailoring Academy in Macclesfield, UK, where he completed an intensive 10.5‑month professional training program later in life, after retiring from a nursing career. He describes the pace, rigour, camaraderie, and transformative experience of studying tailoring full-time, learning precise techniques, working with high-end fabrics, and building garments from the inside out.

Returning to Maine, Duane started Holdfast Bespoke, where he now makes custom jackets, waistcoats, trousers, and outerwear — often using fine woollens from mills like Moon, McGee, and Holland & Sherry. He discusses the challenges of sourcing fabric as a new artisan, the realities of working slowly and deliberately by hand, the joys of satisfied clients, and the emotional meaning people find in handmade garments.

Duane also shares his current project: preparing six looks for an upcoming runway show with the Maine Crafts Association. Throughout the conversation, it touches on craftsmanship, creativity, timeless design, the tailoring industry, and the personal satisfaction of continuing to learn and make meaningful things.

You can find Holdfast Bespoke at: www.holdfastbespoke.com.

Duane's Instagram account is @mainelymenswear, and the vest that didn't quite turn out right can be found on Duane's blog.

Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmology

Nick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.

Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

In this episode, Nick sits down with Neale McDonald, founder of the small‑batch menswear label Adamant Clothing, to talk about the journey from skate‑scene style obsession to designing handmade garments in Scotland.

They dive into craftsmanship, what “made in” really means, the frustrations of modern social media, menswear trends, and the challenges of running a tiny self‑funded brand in a big‑brand world.

A thoughtful conversation about passion, quality, and why the humble overshirt might be the perfect garment.

You can find Adamant on the web at adamantclothing.com and on Instagram as @adamant_clothing

Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmology

Nick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.

Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

In this wide‑ranging and deeply reflective conversation, Nick welcomes back fashion researcher and maker Wendy Ward to unpack what really happens to clothes after we’re done with them — and why the fashion industry’s language around “recycling” and “sustainability” increasingly rings hollow. They explore the murky realities of textile waste, charity shop overload, and so‑called recycling systems that often amount to exporting waste elsewhere or incinerating it. Wendy reflects on her stalled attempt to return waste garments to manufacturers, digging into the complexities of end‑of‑life clothing systems and the uncomfortable truth that only around 1% of post‑consumer textiles are truly recycled. Amid the bleak realities, the conversation shifts toward more hopeful ground: Wendy’s wearing tally practice, cost‑per‑wear labels, personal garment narratives, and examples of brands and makers celebrating care, repair, and long‑term use. Together, they question whether fashion can rediscover joy, meaning, and creativity without driving relentless over‑consumption — and whether positivity, not guilt, might be the key to real change. This episode is a candid exploration of value, honesty, infrastructure, and imagination — and what it might take to build a healthier relationship with the clothes we already own.

You can find all Wendy's links on her Linktree here.

Links:

Nature: "Secondhand fashion consumers exhibit fast fashion behaviors despite sustainability narratives" https://www.nature.com/articles/s41598-025-19089-1

The Guardian: "‘Hospices are in retreat’: funding crisis squeezing UK palliative care providers" https://www.theguardian.com/society/2025/mar/24/hospices-in-retreat-funding-crisis-squeezing-uk-palliative-care-providers

NRK: "Må kaste 500 tonn mer tekstiler enn i fjor: – Nå sliter vi veldig mye" https://www.nrk.no/vestfoldogtelemark/frykter-at-gjenbruksbransjen-kan-kollapse-_-kaster-500-tonn-mer-tekstiler-enn-i-fjor-1.17656476 (Suggest using the translate function in Google Chrome)

Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmology

Nick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.

Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

In this festive roundtable episode, Nick, Jon, and Shaun gather to complain — politely — about modern shopping, resale platforms, and the strange reality of buying your own clothes back years later from a charity shop.

They talk eBay deliveries that arrive whenever they feel like it, Vinted’s takeover of second-hand culture, AI-written listings that say nothing, and heritage brands that now come with a geography quiz. Along the way, there’s boiled wool, duffle coats, social media fatigue, and the realisation that the internet has slowly turned into a badly lit shopping centre.

It’s a warm, funny, slightly grumpy end-of-year chat about clothes, trust, and why keeping one good thing for 20 years might still be the most radical idea of all.

Festive, thoughtful, and lightly exasperated — just as intended.

Featuring Shaun Brown and Jon Fowler, aka @these_rough_notes and @HeavyJon on Instagram.

Early reviews of this episode are mixed, so your listening pleasure is uncertain:

Tortoise Trends commented, «We appreciate the slow pace of the proceedings».
VintageWear Weekly gushingly praised «At least they don’t mention whiffy vintage garms this time!»
Giffnock Advertiser noted, «Local celeb Shaun gets properly stuck into the proceedings and we love it.»
Stationary Engine Magazine said, «These guys sound like our kind of people.“
Teddy Bear Times said, «Gets a bit boring in the middle then better at the end.“
The Country Smallhold said, “They dress for the occasion but are they up to it?”
Business of Fashion stated, «Clearly our days of shilling for the man are over, all hail the three kings.»
Gentleman’s Quarterly: «A laidback and comfortably paced chat perfect for accompanying the preparation of sprouts».
Amateur Carp Fishing Monthly said, “ It’s not really our thing.“
Carnoustie Guide & Gazette said, “It’s a podcast with men talking.“
From Twitter @JeansAndSheux «The scene appreciates the respect shown and offers a Peroni in return.»
Motorway Lovers Weekly “Once again there’s no mention of the M45 “
Pitti Peacocks Annual whinges «We fail to appreciate the loathing of our beloved monk-strap shoes. This is dismal.»
The Guardian pontificated «We’d be sure to recommend Garmology if we’d heard of it.»
The Brighton Bugle blethered «Jon is clearly one of our finest local citizens and we really should shower him with appreciation.»
Tønsberg Blad skriver «Jasså, så han holder ennå på? Kanskje på tide å rydde forsiden igjen...»

Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmology

Nick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.

Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

Step into the studio with bespoke tailor Alis LeMay, whose Glasgow-based craft blends heritage techniques, natural dyes, British wool, and a deep respect for the land. In this inspiring conversation, Alis shares how chance encounters, traditional skills, and local collaborations shaped her journey from animation student to couture dressmaker — and why natural materials are at the heart of her latest project, Clò an Tìr (“cloth of the land”).

Discover:

• The magic of British wool
• How natural dyes shift and glow in changing light
• The rigour, romance, and reality of bespoke tailoring
• Glasgow’s forgotten textile history
• The joy of collaboration and apprenticing - Why fit, craft, and local production still matter
• And hear about incredibly large statues, made of wool!

Whether you're into slow fashion, heritage craft, textiles, sustainability, or just a good creative origin story, this episode is a rich, warm, craft-filled journey.

You can find Alis on the web at alislemay.com and on Instagram as @alis_le_may

Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmology

Nick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.

Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

What happens when a lifelong sneaker lover refuses to throw away his favourite shoes — and ends up building a full sneaker restoration business instead?

In this episode, we meet SneakerPharm’s founder, the craftsman bringing dead, battered, sun-bleached trainers back to life using skill, chemistry, and a whole lot of patience. From reverse-engineering damaged materials to perfecting the art of whitening, reglueing, repainting, and rebuilding — this is a deep dive into the world of sneaker rescue and the culture around it.

We talk about:
🧪 How he learned restoration through trial, error, and obsession
👟 Why certain sneakers are worth saving — even if they look beyond repair
🔥 The business of sneaker cleaning, detailing, and reviving rare pairs
✨ The surprising emotional stories behind the shoes people send in
📦 What it’s really like turning your passion into a full-time craft

If you love sneakers, craftsmanship, or just great stories from people who really care about what they make, you’ll enjoy this behind-the-scenes look at a fascinating and fast-growing world.

You can find SneakerPharm on the web at sneakerpharm.com and on Instagram as @sneakerpharm

Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmology

Nick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.

Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.