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Surfing big waves is both bliss and conflict for New Yorker correspondent William Finnegan. His Pulitzer Prize-winning memoir, Barbarian Days, describes a decades-long tension between a grounded, responsible life on land, and an open, fanatical life riding waves. Travel with us to the cliffs of Oahu, where Finnegan's passion for waves began, and where his sea-land dilemma continues.
What listeners say about Ep. 1: William Finnegan's Barbarian Days
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Your Wave is Waiting
This short episode (15 minutes) has to be one of the most beautiful Audible books, I've ever listened to.
William Finnegan, passionate surfer and author of his bestselling biography Barbarian Days, takes us to the beach in Hawaii where it all began.
He talks about how it started, the danger and the beauty of being an addict to the bigger, the better, the ultimate wave.
In the background the waves are crashing at the shore and tender music relaxes and I felt, I was right there standing beside Will and listening.
He has decided to cut back, now as a family man there's responsibility, but you feel how hard it is, to just watch.
I loved every minute of it. Just do yourself a favour and dive right in.