the girls who lit their clothes on fire and built a cult around it.In this episode of the fashion archives I sit down with Cosima from Ottolinger — the berlin-based fashion label known for deconstruction, ceramic bags, and pure creative chaos.we talk about:– how they built a brand that's niche but has international appeal– the fashion scene as a niche brand in paris and in berlin – that ceramic bag!!!!!– destruction as design language– and what it really takes to stay independent in 2025also available on spotify substack and wherever you consume your long-form contentlearn about ottolinger here https://ottolinger.com/FIND ME HEREhttps://www.youtube.com/@chez.amelie

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love you and ducking subscribe!!!!!

fashion critic filmmaker and forever icon diane pernet joins us for an unfiltered conversation about what it really means to build your own path in fashion.

follow and rate the fashion archives podcast on spotify the same way you'd rate a restaurant experience on google xdxdxd

before blogs, before Instagram, before content creators were even a thing—diane was documenting fashion on her own terms. With her signature black veil and unmatched point of view, she founded A Shaded View on Fashion Film, walked for Demna’s Balenciaga couture show, and helped shape a global conversation around fashion x film way before anyone else was doing it.

She shares what it’s really like to stick around in fashion for decades—and how to stay relevant without selling your soul :)))

We also get into:– her uniform and favorite designers– what it was like walking for Demna (and her thoughts on him heading to Gucci)– how she made her own space without asking for permission– what it actually takes to last in fashion

Diane is the kind of guest I dreamed of having on when I started this podcast: someone who built something meaningful in this chaotic, ever-changing industry—without ever diluting her voice.

This is part of the new chapter I’ve been working on behind the scenes: sitting down with people I admire—people who’ve done the work, taken risks, and stayed weird :)))))))

so grateful to have MOTHER on the archives

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Legendary image-maker Nick Knight sits down with us to share his unfiltered insights on the future of fashion.

From the revolutionary impact of AI in fashion to reflections on icons like Alexander McQueen and Martin Margiela, Nick offers a behind-the-scenes perspective you won't hear anywhere else

We dive deep into the current state of fashion weeks — questioning their relevance, evolution, and cultural value in today's digital-first world.

Nick also opens up about the real business challenges the UK fashion industry faces in the post-Brexit landscape, giving you a full 360° view of the creative and commercial forces reshaping the fashion world right now.

Plus, we explore his groundbreaking work with SHOWstudio, live-streaming fashion shows before anyone else dared, and the importance of collaborative work between creatives.

If you're passionate about the future of fashion, the intersection of art and technology, and the business realities of creative industries, this interview is essential viewing.

Nick is the first guest part of these new special eps I am introducing on The Archives: I’ve been wanting to take podcast to the next level for a while now. not just where i talk but a real space where we can listen, learn, and grow together.

behind the scenes, i’ve been working on bringing guests on.

people I meet along the way that i think we can actually learn from — not just about the art and craft of fashion, but about building careers, making mistakes, navigating the chaos of this industry.this new chapter is for us.for the ones who are curious, hungry, restless.

I’ve selected different guests with different journeys — journalists, vintage curators, entrepreneurs, photographers —

so that wherever you are on your path, you’ll find something that clicks. something that sticks with you.

something you can use.

this is a MEGA dream for me — not just to talk about fashion, but to create a space where we question it, learn from it, and build our own version of it.honored and humbled to have Nick as my first guest!!!!🖤

im hungry for your feedback!!!!!

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If the Margiela boy = Isabel Marant girl

then… is the Hedi Slimane boy = Ann Demeulemeester girl?

Nostalgia is a cycle we can’t seem to exit—and deep down, I find comfort in that.

After all, I’m a Cancer.

In this episode of The Fashion Archives podcast I trace the return of two iconic fashion archetypes: the Hedi Slimane boy and the Ann Demeulemeester girl.

From Dior Homme to Antwerp minimalism, blurry gig photos to Tumblr dashboards, we explore how the aesthetics of the 2000s and 2010s are being reimagined in 2025 through indie sleaze, post-punk, and quiet rebellion.

We talk Stefano Gallici’s vision for Ann Demeulemeester, the rise of 2hollis and Snow Strippers, the electro-emo music comeback, and the enduring appeal of skinny jeans, leather jackets, poet blouses, and lace-up boots.It’s about fashion formulas that never leave.

Subcultures that keep haunting us.

And how fashion, once again, is a tool for emotional expression in a world that’s oversaturated with trends.

If you’re into archive fashion, Hedi Slimane's Celine era, early YSL Homme, the Libertines, Crystal Castles, or even just vibing with the whole “hot people looking bad on purpose” aesthetic—this one’s for you.

And if you feel like fashion has nothing new to say… you might be right. hold that thought for the next episode

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salone isn’t about furniture trades only. it’s becoming more and more about culture - fashion - networking my new-newsletter https://thefashionarchives.substack.com/what started in 1961 as a trade fair for italian furniture is now the unofficial soft launch of the global creative calendar. it’s milan’s design olympics, its most stylish week (more than mfw - it's like MORE REAL), and one of the best-kept secrets for fashion insiders who are actually doing things behind the scenes.we're talking about an annual design takeover where fashion people finally relax. no step-and-repeats, no chaos PR pitstops, no seat assignments — just editors, stylists, buyers, and directors walking slowly through installations, touching fabrics, asking questions, and talking like actual humans.this is where storytelling meets design. where prada hosts symposiums on moving trains. where loewe turns teapots into art. where jil sander reinterprets the s64 chair. where gucci reimagines bamboo as concept.salone is where the fashion industry’s deeper thinking happens — off-runway, off-season, off-brand (in the best way). it's strategy disguised as furniture. it’s presence without performance. and it’s where you’ll find the archive-makers, not just the content creators.fuorisalone — the city-wide offsite satellite shows — is where the real stuff goes down. brutalist parking garage exhibitions. rooftop lamp launches. conversations over espresso in courtyard cafés.salone isn’t loud. it’s smart.and if you're sleeping on it, you won’t after reading this newsletter.save the cheat sheets about where to eat, where to shop, which fashion brands are showcasing where that you'll find in my newsletter :)))also: walk without purpose.

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let’s start with what i hate, because that’s always more fun.suede leather? too delicate, hates water, fades in the sun. high-maintenance and never worth it. kitten heels? pain in disguise. the worst of both worlds—no height, no comfort, just suffering. scarves? idk something about them feels very i collect antique teacups and trauma. polka dots? lovely in an editorial. horizontal stripes? be serious.now, the good stuff.fringe on bags and jackets = yes. movement. drama. black knee-high boots? they fix everything. truly. ugly outfit? fixed. existential crisis? still cute. asymmetrical zippers, jackets, anything—yes. a little off-balance never hurt anyone. t-shirts with stupid quotes? love. the dumber the better. bonus points if it makes people do a double take. and my 501s? they’re basically my emotional support pants at this point.the fashion archives pod is where we rant, reflect, and reference.part therapy, part cultural commentary. i really hope you'll love this space as much as I do xdxdxd

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IS THIS CAKE

OR IS THIS FOOD MARKETING FOR FASHION AND BEAUTY

aka how fashion started selling you vibes using foodfashion’s been obsessed with food for a while now—but not the nourishing kind, the fantasy kind. in this episode, we break down how brands use food as a marketing tool to sell clothes, beauty, and identity.It starts with schiaparelli (duh)—she literally put a lobster on a gown in the ’30s and called it couture. Fast forward to karl lagerfeld turning chanel runways into supermarkets and parisian brasseries. he wasn’t just showing tweed, he was selling you the entire lifestyle: champagne for breakfast energy.then there’s moschino going full camp with cereal box dresses and Happy Meal heels. not subtle. but still smart.beauty followed fast—glosses that look like melted popsicles, lip oils packaged like candy, products you want to lick more than apply. rhode made skincare look like a snack. margiela gave us gloss that looks like jelly. loewe gave us tomato perfume. YES. tomato. and we ate it up.this episode unpacks why food works so well in fashion marketing: it’s emotional, nostalgic, and super easy to aestheticize. It’s not about hunger—it’s about craving. and fashion knows exactly how to trigger it.so yeah welcome to the era of edible aesthetics. and don’t be surprised if your next lipstick launch looks more like something you'd rather eat.

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hello to the archivists XDXD in ep. 50 we’re talking about the creative director—how the role was born, how it got messy, and what’s next.Let’s start with karl. Lagerfeld was the OG. In 1974, he was the sole designer at chloé—before the title "creative director" even existed. But with him, something shifted. Designers stopped being just garment-makers and started building worlds. He worked on the brand’s visual identity, storytelling, image—everything.Then came Bernard Arnault. He basically Voldemorted his way into fashion—strategic, relentless, quietly building an empire. His hostile takeover of Boussac and Dior was the beginning. And then he went full power mode: Galliano. McQueen. Marc Jacobs. That era? Pure auteur energy. These designers were setting culture.Fast forward to now and it's a chess game. Creative directors barely last a full year. The pressure’s more insane than ever even if you thought it was not possible, the timelines are brutal, and everyone’s trying to stay relevant and sell bags.But maybe the future isn’t about the lone genius anymore. Maybe it’s collaborative—like Raf and Miuccia. Less ego, more ecosystem.

Let’s talk about it.

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