Walking in Chandor, Goa's old capital before the Portuguese

Long before churches reshaped the skyline and coastal trade drew global attention, power in Goa flowed from inland valleys, fertile fields, and river-fed settlements. Chandor—ancient Chandrapura—was once the political and cultural heart of the region under the Kadamba dynasty. Today, it appears almost modest: a quiet village of temples, mansions, and shaded lanes. Yet beneath this calm lies a deep continuity of life, belief, and governance that stretches back over a thousand years