In the final episode of Speak Greasy Season 3, Gauri Devidayal speaks with Mathew Varghese and Ebaani Tewari, the talented chef duo behind Kari Apla, a restaurant rooted in the diverse culinary heritage of the Deccan Coast. Mathew and Ebaani share the inspiring journey that led them from hospitality school to becoming chef-owners of their first restaurant in Mumbai. The menu at Kari Apla reflects their childhood food memories, blending Malayali, Maharashtrian, and Andhra influences with contemporary techniques to create a nostalgic yet modern dining experience.

Mathew started his career at Taj Hotels, working his way through multiple properties, including the iconic Orient Express in New Delhi. His experience as part of the opening team at Comorin further prepared him for the operational and creative challenges of running a restaurant, giving him firsthand experience with high-pressure environments and lean teams. Ebaani pursued her passion for food in London, where she specialised in cuisine and patisserie, gaining valuable insights into international culinary techniques. Back in India, she worked at Bastian, where she experimented with menus, followed by roles at Taj Lands End and in research and development, which sharpened her ability to innovate.

During the lockdown, the couple began sketching out the concept for Kari Apla. The restaurant took shape as a reflection of their roots and the varied cuisines they grew up eating across different parts of India. Building Kari Apla from scratch came with its challenges. They had to learn everything about restaurant operations, from sourcing equipment to designing a small, efficient kitchen space. Despite initial scepticism, they persevered and opened the restaurant within 75 days of signing the lease.

Mathew and Ebaani’s journey is filled with lessons about resilience, adaptability, and the importance of building a strong team. For them, attitude matters more than technical expertise when hiring staff. They look for individuals who are eager to learn and open to experimenting with new ideas. This philosophy has helped them create a team that shares their passion for food and contributes to the evolution of Kari Apla’s menu.

The conversation also explores the couple’s approach to balancing their professional and personal lives. Together, they complement each other, ensuring that the restaurant runs smoothly while maintaining a shared vision.

Kari Apla is a culmination of their experiences, influenced by their diverse cultural backgrounds, the mentors who shaped them, and the people who supported their dream. They candidly discuss the realities of running a restaurant, from handling no-show reservations to dealing with critical reviews. Their focus remains on creating an authentic and memorable experience for their diners while continuously learning and adapting.

This episode offers invaluable insights for anyone interested in starting their own restaurant or understanding the intricacies of the food and beverage industry. Mathew and Ebaani’s story is a celebration of passion, perseverance, and the power of food to bring people together.