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Seeking Tranquillity in France

Seeking Tranquillity in France

De: John B Howard
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Stories and reflections from an American and Irish citizen living in France

leavingamerica.substack.comJohn Brooks Howard
Ciencias Sociales
Episodios
  • A banking tip for new residents of France
    Sep 5 2025
    Whether moving as a citizen of the United States or from any other country to reside in France, one of the first steps is to establish a French bank account. It’s very likely that in certain contexts—such as in obtaining a property lease—having a French bank account is a non-negotiable requirement. Some might anticipate this and open an account with a French international bank (such as BNP Paribas) before making their move to ease their entry to France, others will do so soon after arrival (and U.S. persons will learn about FATCA in the process, if they haven’t before). It’s likely your account will be called a compte courant, or “current account,” which is intended for support of everyday financial transactions.But there are a couple things to be aware of as you get settled in and become tax resident in France.Taking up residenceAt the time you open an account with a French bank, you might not yet be verifiably fiscally resident (also referred to as being tax resident) in the country. That is, you will not yet have met the conditions necessary for being fiscally resident, which are:* Your home is in France (where “home” would also potentially include a spouse, a recognised civil partner, and children)* Your main place of stay is France (i.e., you stay in France or its overseas territories for at least 183 days of the year)* You work in France (it is the place where your employment provides the bulk of your income)* The centre of your economic interests is France (it is where your major investments have been made, or it is the place from which you manage your principal activities)But once you have evidence of fiscal residency, based on the above, you might find yourself in the position of being able to get a better deal on your compte courant at the bank, and other banking services might become available to you.To formally recognise that you’re fiscally resident in France, however, a bank is likely to require concrete evidence, for example, a signed and dated lease agreement (un bail) or a justificatif de domicile (proof of address) obtained from your power utility. In addition, a bank might also look for evidence of your having submitted a tax declaration to the French tax authority, the Direction générale des Finances publiques (DGFiP) and of having obtained a tax ID before accepting that you are fiscally resident.Here’s the banking tipOnce you have sufficient evidence of fiscally residency, and certainly after you’ve received your tax statement and numéro fiscal, make an appointment with your bank counsellor to review the terms of your current account. Bring with you the French tax statement (avis d’impôt) and tax number, your passport(s), your justificatif de domicile, and documentary proofs of income.The tax statement gives incontrovertible evidence that you are a bona fide tax resident of France, with intentions of remaining in the country, and would generally be the document that banks prefer. Once submitted, the bank should update your status in its records accordingly. Your status as fiscally resident implies that you represent a lesser risk to the bank and, depending on your bank, some tangible banking advantages might arise as a result:* Lower maintenance charges on current accounts;* A wider range of banking options: savings or investment accounts might become available, for example;* Enhanced access to credit: an option for a debit card (carte bancaire) with a higher monthly limit, or for a credit card (carte bleue);* Access to insurance products that are off-limits to those not fiscally resident in the country, including the popular life insurance (assurance vie) policies that enable growth-oriented investment and certain tax advantages, especially with regard to inheritance tax.Benefits available will vary depending on the individual bank, but once you’re settled and have sufficient proof that you are fiscally resident in France, it’s probably worth your while to go back to your bank to determine how your updated status might translate to enhanced benefits. It might save you money, give you more banking options, and make your life easier. Get full access to Seeking Tranquillity in France at leavingamerica.substack.com/subscribe
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    5 m
  • Recalling boys' magazines of yesteryear
    Aug 15 2025

    Growing up I loved to read. There were always books to explore at home, many of them had been bought for my father when he was a child. Some of them I read over and over. I especially liked the books by Thornton W. Burgess which told of the lives of many colourful animals who lived near “The Smiling Pool” and were forever teased and tested by Old Mother West Wind. Old “Grandfather Frog,” sitting on his lily pad, often told tales that explained the origin or the nature of things. Before beginning his stories he would smooth his yellow waistcoat and say “Chugarum!”

    It also seemed that there were always a few magazines kicking around that were intended just for boys. My family didn’t subscribe to them, but they found their way into our home somehow; others were on the tables in the paediatrician’s waiting room. The one I remember best was called Boys Life. It was a publication of the Boy Scouts of America, which didn’t mean much to me. But I enjoyed reading it for some of the stories, for the comics, and especially for the advertising—which is what I recall best about it. I also had an aunt who lived in Boston, and at the corner pharmacy on her block there were racks of many comic books. Whenever I’d visit she’d give me a dime or two so I could buy one or two comic books, and over time these came to comprise a small library in her apartment. They had similar advertisements to what I’d seen in Boys Life, and I’d re-read them whenever I visited.

    In fact, looking back, it is a bit difficult to differentiate some of the articles from the advertising. I had an interest in shortwave and amateur radio which was stoked by the frequent articles that made it sound exotic and interesting. I also spent time looking at the radio equipment that was advertised, brands with intriguing names like “Hallicrafters,” dreaming of one day actually owning such a thing.

    Other products and services that were advertised made a big impression, too—a testimony, I suppose, to the ability of advertising to imprint upon the minds of children.



    Get full access to Seeking Tranquillity in France at leavingamerica.substack.com/subscribe
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    15 m
  • My favourite bilingual (and trilingual) dictionaries. Really!
    Jul 25 2025
    I’ve always enjoyed learning languages. As children my siblings and I were expected to learn French, at least up to a point. It was fun, and memorable—my sister and I recently spoke of those times and about the children’s books we read in French and how much we enjoyed them. Later, I found French classes in school a boring and repetitive chore, but eventually in high school the grammar drills ended and we started reading real literature. That got me re-engaged and restored my fascination with languages. We also had to respond to essay questions in French on examinations and homework assignments. So having a bilingual dictionary became indispensable.At university I discovered that the library held an extraordinary range of language dictionaries, monolingual as well as bilingual, that were essential for some of the challenging reading assignments we received. I bought myself several “serious” dictionaries before graduation (Latin↔English; German↔English, and French↔English, Latin↔English) as well as a couple pocket dictionaries for on the go. But I always found them challenging to use. Some words have several meanings, depending on context, and the meaning can change when used figuratively or in an idiomatic expression. I would scan the various numbered meanings to find the one that fit—this worked well when reading or trying to understand a recorded text, but when writing, things felt more hit-or-miss. I’m sure some things I wrote at the time must have been hilarious to my teachers.Dictionaries can also be useful in understanding which prepositions to use with which verbs—something that easily trips up beginning language learners. But they might not be so helpful with the actual spoken or written use of language, where changes of tense, number, mood or voice mutate the form of the verb. So, tools such as the Bescherelle Conjugaison volumes for French (or Le Figaro’s online Le Conjugeur) are an indispensable adjunct to even the best dictionaries. In some languages, certain verbs are associated with changes of case with nouns, pronouns and adjectives (e.g., “eines guten Mannes,” German for “of a good man,” here showing declensions in genitive case); some dictionaries can also be useful in this context, but this is a place where understanding the grammar of a language kicks in.Moving to Germany in the late 1970s was a test of my linguistic adaptability, even after two years of college German and four weeks of intensive study at the Goethe Institut. Although I had become capable in day-to-day language (other than the sometimes opaque Bavarian Mundart, or dialect, that I heard when working in Munich), writing always left me feeling insecure. I’d post letters that took two hours to write still worrying that I might sound like some kind of nincompoop. No surprise that I’d find myself in the wonderful Munich bookstores standing in the reference section, eyeing the language materials.Particularly striking was the series of dictionaries published by Duden, called “Deutsche Sprache in 12 Bänden” (German Language in 12 Volumes). It was a virtual linguistic rainbow, with colourfully bound volumes dedicated to Rechtschreibung (spelling/orthography), conventional word meanings, words borrowed from other languages, grammar and etymology, and much more. My book budget was almost non-existent—my academic stipend was insufficient, and my income from work at the Munich’s Großmarkthalle and Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten left little room for discretionary spending.Two volumes, though, were irresistible. The first was the Stilwörterbuch—a dictionary of style, i.e., a guide to the usage of German vocabulary. I don’t think I’ve ever written more than a couple paragraphs in German without consulting this volume, which gives extensive examples of the appropriate use of German vocabulary. If you wonder whether the word you know is the best possible choice, check it here. If you know a couple words that, to you, are perfect synonyms, the Stilwörterbuch will clarify the precise meaning they convey and how to use them. Not sure of which preposition follows, or of more complex idiomatic usages, this is the place to go. By the time that volume had become too brittle and loose to retain, the pages were well thumbed and sheer sentimentality made it hard for me to bid it farewell.The other book I purchased with my hard-earned D-mark was the Bildwörterbuch (picture dictionary). Before buying it I found myself returning to the bookstore several times to make use of it. Working in the kitchen of the Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten there were things I could not identity—sometimes I didn’t even know the nomenclature in English! But the Bildwörterbuch identified everything visually. Page after page showed automobile parts, dentist offices, kitchens, factory assembly lines, gardens, power plants, Renaissance buildings, and Greek temples, with each component carefully identified with the best German...
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    8 m
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