This is a special episode in partnership with Fashion District London.

In this episode of No Ordinary Cloth, we go back to where the cotton story truly begins: in the soil and in small farming communities. Mili is joined by Felix Bartlett, founder of Biothread, and Dr. Catherine Bottrill, co‑founder of ACE (Affordable Clean Environment) Cotton, to explore how regenerative farming, microbial science and clean energy can transform the future of the world’s favourite fibre.

Together they unpack the small and large scale cotton farming industry and ask what it would mean for cotton to become a force for regeneration: rebuilding soil health, cutting emissions and creating real wealth and dignity for the people who grow it.

In this episode, we talk about:

• Why cotton is still the “quiet king” of textiles – beloved by the richest and the poorest, and deeply bound up with power, politics and identity.
• The difference between conventional, organic and regenerative cotton – and why “regenerative” is as much a process and pathway as an end state.
• How Biothread uses microbial consortia and field trials to reduce synthetic fertiliser use, improve yields and strengthen soil health in cotton systems.
• The social realities behind cotton: farmer debt, crop failure, climate volatility and why soil degradation sits at the heart of many of these crises.
• ACE Cotton’s village‑level model in South Asia – combining solar irrigation, clean household energy and biodiversity projects to support just decarbonisation.
• How brand decarbonisation targets, farm‑level emissions and smallholder energy access can be aligned so climate action also builds resilience and opportunity.
• The role of data, measurement and software in proving impact – from input reductions and yield changes to carbon, water and livelihoods metrics.
• Farmer trust, pilots and “show and tell”: what it takes to introduce new technologies and financing models into communities where risk is already high.
• Why cotton must be protected as the most widely used natural fibre if we are to avoid a fully synthetic future for fashion.
• The power of storytelling in shifting cotton from “cheap commodity” to living system – and how Felix and Catherine draw on their own backgrounds to do that work.

Pilio Group ACE Village

BioThread

Fashion District London

Books on the history of cotton explore its role as a global commodity that shaped modern capitalism, industrialisation, and imperialism

1. Empire of Cotton: A Global History : Sven Beckert
2. A History of the Cotton Industry : Anthony Burton
3. Cotton (Textiles that Changed the World) : Beverly Lemire

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Recommended listening:

Ep 25. Turning Agri Waste to Cellulose Fibre

Ep 14. Farm to Fibre

Cover art: Photo by Siora, Photography on Unsplash

Music: Inspired Ambient, Orchestraman

This episode goes deep into the complexity of how our clothes are cut and sewn today and what it will take to rebuild apparel manufacturing for the 21st century. Mili Tharakan is joined by Cam Myers, Founder, CEO and Board Director of CreateMe Technologies, who shares how his team is pioneering an autonomous, stitchless tailoring platform that brings together robotics, advanced adhesives and what he calls “Physical AI.”

Cam is a seasoned entrepreneur and inventor with two decades of experience across automation, hardware, software, and apparel tech, he has built CreateMe from concept to industry pioneer, securing 25 patents for apparel automation innovations. Before CreateMe, Cam played key roles at DoubleClick (during its $3.1B sale to Google) and Group Commerce, a venture‑backed e‑commerce platform later acquired by Blackhawk Network. He began his career in investment banking at Allen & Company and holds an MA from Cambridge and an MBA from Northwestern’s Kellogg School, with further studies at MIT in advanced manufacturing.

Key takeaways

• Why apparel remains one of the most labor‑intensive, offshored industries in the world, employing tens of millions of people and relying heavily on manual sewing.
• What makes sewing so hard to automate: unstable textile physics, extreme variability in fabrics and fits, and the need for human‑like perception and dexterity in three‑dimensional space.
• How CreateMe’s bonded garment technology uses printed adhesive patterns that mimic stitch files, enable fully automated assembly, and can be made thermo‑reversible for disassembly and recycling.
• Where this platform is already being applied—starting with categories like women’s underwear—and the range of fabrics, constructions, and embellishments it can support, from fine silks to complex laminations.
• The vision for on‑shoring and “microfactories of the future”: compact, high‑throughput production cells capable of million‑unit annual output, shorter lead times, and closer proximity to key consumer markets
• What this shift could mean for inventory risk, responsiveness, sustainability, and the economics of producing apparel in high‑wage regions.
• Cam’s founder journey from investment banking and high‑growth tech and e‑commerce ventures to building CreateMe into an apparel automation pioneer with a growing portfolio of patents—and why textiles should be seen as critical infrastructure, not just fashion trends.

CreateMe

London Sewing Machine museum: www.museumslondon.org

🎧 Recommended listening:

Ep 6. AI for Zero waste fabric, Sustainability and Traceability in Textile Factories

Ep 13. 3D Weaving yarn to garment and zero inventory circular fashion

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Mili Tharakan: Linkedin I Insta I Website I Buy me a coffee

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Cover art: Photo by Siora, Photography on Unsplash

Music: Inspired Ambient, Orchestraman

In this episode of No Ordinary Cloth, we sit down with Charles Ross, Performance Sportswear Design Lecturer at the Royal College of Art, to explore what durability and sustainability looks like in the fashion and sportswear industries. Charles has spent over two decades at the intersection of functional design and environmental responsibility, championing the idea of sustainability through longevity — creating durable, meaningful clothing that stands the test of time.

Together, we unpack the idea of emotional durability: how designers can foster deeper connections between people and their garments, making us value what we wear more and waste less. Charles shares insights from his extensive experience working with brands like Patagonia, The North Face and Adidas as well as from his teaching, research, and outdoor pursuits that inform his hands-on approach to design.

It's an episode where you will laugh and learn from one of the legends of outdoor and performance wear.

Key Takeaways

• Designing for both physical and emotional longevity is one of fashion’s most sustainable acts.
• Storytelling, authenticity, and personal connection drive emotional durability.
• Consumers are more likely to repair, care for, and retain garments they’re emotionally attached to.
• The sportswear sector can lead in circular thinking by blending innovation with human-centered design.
• Longevity is not just about how long clothes last, but how long they matter.

Resources:

DO Lectures

A Climate of Truth by Mike Bernes-Lee

There is No Planet B by Mike Bernes-Lee

Performance Days

Connect with Charles Ross: LinkedIn

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Cover art: Photo by Siora, Photography on Unsplash

Music: Inspired Ambient, Orchestraman

Special episode by No Ordinary Cloth x Fashion District

In this episode, Mili speaks with Sol Escobar, founder of Give Your Best, and Anoli Mehta, founder of Circular Threads, two inspiring women tackling fashion’s social and environmental challenges from different angles. Sol’s award-winning social enterprise helps bridge the gap between clothing waste and clothing poverty by allowing people in need—such as refugees and survivors of domestic violence—to shop donated fashion online for free, preserving choice and dignity while promoting circularity. Meanwhile, Anoli’s platform gives South Asian wedding and occasion wear a meaningful second life by creating a space for people to buy, sell, and rediscover preloved garments, extending their lifespan and reducing waste.

Both founders are proving that community-driven circularity—whether through redistribution or resale—can reshape the fashion system, reducing waste while building inclusivity and meaningful connection in how we consume and value clothes

Key Topics Discussed:

• How Sol and Anoli’s businesses address fashion waste and offer alternatives to buying new
• The problem of clothing poverty in the UK and how Give Your Best gives agency and dignity to vulnerable individuals through free shopping for donated clothes
• The challenge of overconsumption and the cultural significance of South Asian fashion, and how Circular Threads is building a dedicated marketplace for preloved occasion wear
• The power of community: building genuine connections with buyers, sellers, donors and volunteers
• Stories of personal identity, belonging, and the emotional meaning tied to clothing
• Behind-the-scenes experiences in entrepreneurship, including overcoming failure, learning resilience, and finding inspiration from lived experiences
• What success looks like—impact, culture shift and empowering others

Calls to Action:

• Listeners are invited to support both projects by donating clothing, becoming a volunteer, attending events, or simply spreading the word to raise awareness
• Anyone with South Asian outfits or formalwear they no longer use is encouraged to visit Circular Threads’ store or online marketplace
• For Give Your Best, all are welcome to donate clothes, connect with local volunteers (“Besties”), and help extend the platform’s mission
• Join these communities to help fashion last longer than an evening out

Follow and connect with Sol Escobar and Anoli Mehta:

• Give Your Best: Website I Insta
• Circular Threads: Website I Insta

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Recommended listening:

Ep 22. Beyond the Bin: fighting against Fashion Waste

Ep 21. Circular Fashion in Action: Insights From Luxury and Highstreet Brands

Cover art: Photo by Siora, Photography on Unsplash

Music: Inspired Ambient, Orchestraman

In this episode, host Mili Tharakan, dives deep into the extraordinary mind and career of Amanda Parkes—a true pioneer at the intersection of science, fashion, and engineering. Amanda has consistently challenged boundaries and redefined what’s possible in textiles and sustainability.

Amanda Parkes is a renowned fashion scientist with more than 20 years of experience pioneering innovation, sustainability, and smart materials across the fashion and technology sectors. As founding scientist and Chief Innovation Officer at Pangaia, she led the creation of market-first, sustainable materials, helping to earn the brand a top spot on Fast Company’s Most Innovative Brands list. She holds a PhD and MS from the MIT Media Lab and degrees in Mechanical Engineering and Art History from Stanford. As an Advisor at Regeneration VC Amanda also advises leading climate tech and biomaterials startups and is an internationally recognised speaker, honoured by the Business of Fashion and Vanity Fair for her influential work shaping the industry.

In this episode they explore Amanda's latest venture - Mothership Materials, where she is translating cutting-edge molecular separation technology to turn waste into valuable ingredients for the next generation of textiles and glucose for microbes. Amanda's insights offer a hopeful and innovative vision for the future of the textile industry.

Key takeaways from this episode include the potential of waste valorisation in creating sustainable textiles, the importance of interdisciplinary approaches, and the need for robust business models in sustainable fashion.

Mothership Materials

00:00 Introduction to the No Ordinary Cloth Podcast

00:43 Meet Amanda Parkes: A Pioneer in Sustainable Textiles

05:52 Defining the Role of a Fashion Scientist

13:53 Amanda's New Venture: Mothership Materials

36:03 Navigating Interdisciplinary Skills and Innovation Diplomacy

43:44 Challenges and Strategies in Scaling Sustainable Technologies

51:53 Insights from Leading Innovation at Pangaia

01:09:40 Future of Emerging Textile Technologies

01:10:33 AI in Textile Innovation

01:11:18 Regeneration VC Fund's Mission

01:12:50 Challenges in Impact Measurement

01:15:12 Investment Nervousness in Fashion Startups

01:18:43 Career Path and Advice for Young Professionals

01:42:22 Conclusion and Final Thoughts

Pangaia Lab I Regeneration VC

🎧 Recommended Listening:

Ep 14. Farm to Fibre

Ep 15. Brewing Beer for Bio Leather

Ep 2. From Garden Waste to Leather

Ep 16. Catalyst Shaping the Future of Sustainable and Ethical Fashion

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Cover art: Photo by Siora, Photography on Unsplash

Music: Inspired Ambient, Orchestraman

In this episode, host Mili speaks with Bradley Seese,(“The Yarn Geek”), VP of Operations at Clothing 2.0 and a lifelong textile innovator and technical visionary, about the future of medicine-embedded textiles. Learn how Clothing 2.0 is infusing active ingredients like capsaicin (the spicy compound in chili peppers) into yarns to create health-promoting, pain-relieving garments. The conversation spans the science, safety, sustainability, regulatory landscape, and exciting possibilities for smart wearables that do more for our wellbeing—as well as Brad’s passionate journey from North Carolina yarn mills to the frontlines of textile innovation.

Key Topics

• What are medicine-embedded textiles, and how do they work?
• Capsaicin for pain relief: benefits, science, and use in smart clothing.
• Sustainability, wash durability, and minimizing waste in health textiles.
• The challenges and opportunities in bringing textile technology to market.
• Upskilling and creating new job pathways in US-based manufacturing.
• Brad’s personal journey and vision for the next wave of smart wearables.

Clothing 2.0: Website

Resources mentioned by Brad:

Manufacturing Solutions Center (for textile innovation and workforce training)

Advanced Textile Association

Synthetic Yarn and Fabric Association

Southern Textile Association

SEAMS: The Association for the US Sewn Products Industry

Hohenstein Institute: International textile test lab and standards organization

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Cover art: Photo by Siora, Photography on Unsplash

Music: Inspired Ambient, Orchestraman

Special episode by No Ordinary Cloth x Fashion District

In this episode of No Ordinary Cloth, host Mili speaks with Jennifer Droguett Espinosa, a Colombian and Chilean Sustainable Fashion Designer and Creative Director, and the founder of Anciela. Jennifer shares how her early experiences with migration, identity, and upcycling shaped her personal and creative outlook. She discusses her journey from making her own clothes as a child through to studying fashion in Amsterdam, interning with Viktor & Rolf, and building her career and community in London.

Jennifer talks about the origins of Anciela, a brand deeply rooted in storytelling, South American folklore, and experimental tailoring, and grounded on the pillars of culture, sustainability, community, and visibility. She details her creative process, how she layers history, literature, music, and personal memory into collections, and the stories behind some of her signature pieces.

The conversation covers Anciela’s approach to circularity, including sustainable material choices, zero-waste techniques, refresh and repair services, and pioneering digital product passports for transparency. Jennifer opens up about collaborating with Latinx creatives, working with diaspora charities, and making fashion more accessible through inclusive events and workshops. She reflects on her time with the Fashion District’s Evo Fashion programme and the British Fashion Council’s low-carbon initiative, highlighting the challenges and rewards of growing a purpose-led business.

Jennifer concludes with advice on conscious consumption, the importance of small actions, and the need for more brands to center community, inclusivity, and honest storytelling.

Anciela: Website I Linkedin I Insta

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Resources

Evo Fashion - a four-month experiential support programme for emerging brands and fashion technology businesses. It will help you to integrate sustainability into every aspect of your business, taking a holistic approach to business strategy and focusing on supply chain sustainability, ethical working standards, channels to market, and investment readiness. Deadline: 4th August 2025

Low Carbon Transition Programme for SMEs report by British Fashion Council

Ellen MacArthur

Fashion Revolution

The travels of a T-shirt in the global economy, book by Pietra Rivoli

One Hundred Years of Solitude, book by Gabriel García Márquez

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Cover art: Photo by Siora, Photography on Unsplash

Music: Inspired Ambient, Orchestraman

Join host Mili Tharakan as she sits down with Annabel Hought from Round Retail and Yayra Agbofah from The Revival to discuss innovative business models for sustainable fashion, the global crisis of textile waste, and the power of cross-border collaboration. This episode dives into the realities of the secondhand clothing market, the importance of community, and creative solutions for reducing waste while supporting vulnerable communities.

• Textile waste is a global problem that requires local and international collaboration.
• The rise of fast and ultra-fast fashion has led to a flood of low-quality, unsellable garments, overwhelming markets like Kantamanto in Ghana.
• Innovative business models like Round Retail and The Revival show how fashion can be a force for good.
• Consumer awareness and action are crucial for driving systemic change in the fashion industry. Consumers can drive change by voting with their money and supporting responsible businesses.
• Reduce stigma around secondhand fashion and foster a more conscious, circular fashion ecosystem.

How to Support
Donate or consign clothes to Round Retail
Follow and support The Revival’s ongoing efforts to rebuild Kantamanto market and community in Accra, Ghana - Donate
Advocate for extended producer responsibility and more transparent fashion supply chains

Fashion District Festival 2025

Fashion District Festival 2025: 3rd - 8th June 2025, Spitalfields, London

Launch and performance showcase: immersive fashion show

Rebuild and Reimagine with Round Retail: bring old clothes for creative upcycling sessions.

Accelerating Regenerative Fashion: workshop

Circular Design Practice: workshop

Past and Future fabrics: talks

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Mili Tharakan: Linkedin I Insta I Website I Buy me a coffee

If you enjoyed this, please share the episode with a friend or colleague. Subscribe and leave a review, I love to hear your feedback.

Cover art: Photo by Siora, Photography on Unsplash

Music: Inspired Ambient, Orchestraman