Happy New Year. 2026 is here and Andrew starts the year with a reset on where real power lives in the textile world.

He talks about the four major cotton traders: Louis Dreyfus, Cargill, Olam, and Ecom. Governments and sovereign wealth funds now control much of what the world consumes. Abu Dhabi owns 45% of Louis Dreyfus. Singapore and Saudi Arabia control Olam. Trading what we need is as powerful as trading oil, and most people in denim don't think about it.

Then Andrew shifts to Egypt. The Denim and Jeans organization is holding its second show in Cairo this month, and it's worth paying attention to. Egypt's textile industry is growing. New mills, Turkish IP, Chinese investment. Unlike so much of the industry hanging on or going backwards, Egypt is building forward.

A five minute reset on commodity power and why Egypt's rise matters. A hopeful way to start the year.

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This week, Andrew sits down with Shamin Vogel, editorial director and co-publisher of of WeAr Media Group—the people behind WeAr Global Magazine, one of the most widely read fashion trade publications in the world, and WeAr Denim, the biannual deep dive for the denim supply chain, backed by a monthly newsletter that actually gets read—to talk about where fashion really is right now, and why so much of it feels off.

They dig into the tension between growth and meaning, why sustainability still has no shared definition, and how fashion lost its ability to lead culture instead of chase it. Shamin brings a rare, long-term perspective shaped by decades of industry observation, global publishing, and a deep belief that fashion is a lifestyle business first, not a financial spreadsheet.

The conversation moves easily from denim and luxury to retail, media trust, trade shows, and the uncomfortable truth about why doing nothing feels safer than taking risks. It’s not a hype-driven episode. It’s a clear-eyed one about perception, responsibility, and what actually lasts.

If you care about fashion beyond trends, and want to understand the forces shaping what survives next, this one’s worth your time.

Thank you to our sponsor Inside Denim.

Shamin Vogel
Editorial Director & Co-Publisher, WeAr Media Group & WeAr Denim
WeAr Media Group, WeAr Book Store, WeAr LinkedIn, Instagram
WeAr Denim Newsletter
Shamin's Personal Linked-In

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This episode starts in 1975, just after Portugal’s Carnation Revolution. A dictatorship ends. No civil war. No collapse. Just a quiet reset and a country that suddenly has to figure out how to function without fear, hierarchy, or shortcuts.

Then we jump to now. Portugal is one of the strongest-performing economies in Europe, and almost nobody is talking about it.

So the question is not “what happened?” It’s “how long did it take?”

In five minutes, Andrew looks at what decades of underinvestment actually do to a country, why revolutions don’t fix systems overnight, and how real change tends to show up slowly, boringly, and all at once. Roads. Education. Institutions. Confidence.

This isn’t a hype piece or a travel diary. It’s a short reflection on patience, competence, and why the long game usually wins, even if no one is watching.

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