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In this episode, Lucinda and Simon explore the fascinating world of gemmology instruments, focusing on colour filters like the Chelsea colour filter and pleochroism testing methods. Learn how these tools aid in gemstone identification and enhance gem cutting techniques.

Educational

key topics

Colour filters in gemmology

Chelsea colour filter purpose and use

Pleochroism and its significance in gemstone identification

Testing for pleochroism with London Dichroscope and calcite dichroscope

Importance of light source and gemstone orientation in testing

Natural vs synthetic gemstone identification techniques

key frameworks

Colour absorption principles

Pleochroism and optical anisotropy

Gemstone orientation and cutting strategies

Titles

Mastering Gemstone Identification: The Power of Colour Filters and Pleochroism Tests

Unlocking Gem Secrets: Chelsea Filter and Pleochroism in Gemmology

sound bites

"Record your observation by stating the colour scene."

"Always think about why you're looking at the stone."

"Share your pleochroic observations with others."

Chapters

00:00 Introduction to Colour Filters in Gemmology

01:55 Understanding Pleochroism and Selective Absorption

05:27 Testing for Pleochroism with the London Dichroscope

10:34 Comparing the London Dichroscope and Calcite Dichroscope

15:36 Documenting Pleochroism Observations

17:35 Understanding Gemstone Colours and Pleochroism

20:04 The Chelsea Colour Filter: A Gemstone Testing Tool

26:23 Practical Applications of the Chelsea Colour Filter

28:50 Identifying Gemstones: Colour Responses and Observations

resources

Gem-A - https://www.gem-a.com

Pleochroism in Gemstones (Book) - https://www.amazon.com/pleochroism-gemstones

Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/facetnationgemmology

Email - facetnation@facetnation.co.uk

gemmology, colour filters, Chelsea filter, pleochroism, gemstone identification, gem testing, gem cutting, gemmology tools

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This episode explores the fascinating world of jadeite, covering its geology, colours, treatments, cultural significance, and the latest gemological insights. Hosted by gemmologists Lucinda and Simon, it offers a deep dive into one of the most revered gemstones across cultures.

key topics

Jadeite vs Nephrite

Colours and Varieties of Jadeite

Treatments and Impostors in Jadeite

Cultural Significance of Jade in China and Central America

Geology and Formation of Jadeite

Titles

Jadeite Unveiled: 10 Facts Every Gemologist Should Know

The Hidden World of Jadeite: From Burma to Central America

sound bites

"Imperial Jade is the poster child for jadeite"

"Mining jadeite involves cutting into massive boulders"

"Testing includes SG, hardness, and visual clues"

Chapters

00:00 Introduction to Jadeite

02:54 The Complexity of Jadeite

05:43 Understanding Jadeite's Properties

08:39 The Formation and Sources of Jadeite

11:20 Cultural Significance and Jewellery of Jadeite

14:08 Impostors and Imitations of Jadeite

18:40 Testing and Identifying Jadeite

26:46 Exploring Literature and Its Influence

28:01 Understanding Specific Gravity in Gemmology

29:59 Testing Gem Hardness and Its Implications

31:30 Refractive Index: A Key to Gem Identification

33:28 The Complex World of Jade Treatments

39:14 Cultural Significance of Jade in China

51:31 Jade's Historical Importance in Central America

Resources

Gem-A (Gemological Association of Great Britain) - https://gem-a.com

Real Jade Co. - https://realjade.com

Instagram - https://instagram.com/facetnationgemmology

jadeite, gemmology, gemstones, jade, mineralogy, treatments, cultural significance, Guatemala jade, gem identification

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Join us as we explore the journey of jewellery designer Andrew Geoghegan, from childhood fascination with treasure to creating innovative collections inspired by history and nature. Discover insights on craftsmanship, branding, and staying authentic in a digital world.

key topics

Andy Geoghegan's early fascination with treasure and jewellery

The journey from university to professional jewellery design

The importance of authenticity and personal style in branding

Inspiration from history, nature, and personal experiences

Challenges and insights in modern jewellery marketing

guest name

Andrew Geoghegan

Titles

From Childhood Mischief to Jewellery Mastery: Andrew Geoghegan's Creative Journey

Unlocking the Secrets of Gem Setting and Jewellery Design

sound bites

"That moment sparked my love for jewellery"

"The use of colour in jewellery is about expression"

"Finding that relic was like discovering treasure"

Chapters

00:00 Introduction to Andrew Geoghegan

01:20 The Journey Begins: Early Memories of Jewellery

02:57 From Art College to Jewellery Design

09:10 Building the Brand: The Early Days

11:32 Navigating Challenges and Perseverance

16:22 The Digital Age: Marketing Jewellery Today

23:56 Design Inspirations and Client Connections

30:08 The Art of Craftsmanship in Jewellery

34:06 Innovative Use of Colour in Jewellery Design

36:59 Embracing Individuality in Gemstone Choices

37:21 Inspiration from Nature and History

42:33 The Thrill of Treasure Hunting

48:44 Launching the Treowth Collection

resources

Susannah King on Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/susannahkinglondon/

The Detectorists (TV Series) - https://www.netflix.com/title/80064446

Gemology Resources - https://www.gia.edu/

Jewelry Design Books - https://www.amazon.com/s?k=jewelry+design

guest links

Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/andrewgeoghegan/

https://andrewgeoghegan.com/

jewellery design, gemmology, jewellery collection, craftsmanship, branding, authenticity, goldsmithing, gemstone, jewellery inspiration, digital marketing

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Join us as Wim Vertriest, head of field gemmology at GIA, shares his journey from geology to gemmology, insights into Mozambique rubies, and the fascinating science behind gemstone origin determination. Discover how field gemmology connects geology, anthropology, and the gemstone trade to deepen your understanding of these precious stones.

Key topics

Wim Vertriest's journey from geology to gemmology

Insights into Mozambique ruby deposits and mining practices

The role of field gemmology in understanding gemstone origins

Scientific techniques for gemstone identification and origin determination

The impact of Mozambique rubies on the global gemstone market

Guest name

Wim Vertriest

Titles

The Science and Secrets of Mozambique Rubies: An Interview with Wim Vertriest

From Geology to Gemmology: Wim Vertriest's Journey at GIA

sound bites

"Gemmology is about understanding the whole ecosystem."

"Heat treatment leaves subtle but detectable clues."

"My favourite gemstone is the Cat's Eye Chrysoberyl."

Chapters

00:00 Introduction to Gemmology and Guest Background

02:57 Wim's Journey into Gemmology

05:19 The Role of Field Gemmology

07:55 Understanding Gemstone Origins

10:14 Geological Mysteries of Rubies

12:39 The Impact of Mining on Gemstones

15:12 The Evolution of Consumer Awareness

17:43 Building a Reliable Gemstone Collection

20:30 The Multidisciplinary Nature of Field Gemmology

23:04 Exploring the Origins of Sapphires

24:09 Field Gemmology: Balancing Lab Work and Expeditions

26:03 Research-Driven Gemmology: Filling Knowledge Gaps

27:39 Emerging Trends in Gemstone Popularity

29:24 The Challenges of Diamond Origin Determination

30:37 Identifying Gemstones: The Art of Exclusion

33:23 Declassifying Misidentified Stones

39:55 The Canary in the Coal Mine: Ruby Heating Experiments

44:18 The Chemistry of Gemstones

46:47 Advanced Techniques in Gemmology

48:08 The Rise of Mozambique Rubies

52:42 The Evolution of Ruby Mining

58:42 Changing Perceptions of Rubies

01:01:11 The Future of Gemmology

resources

GIA Official Website - https://www.gia.edu

Gems and Gemology Journal - https://www.gia.edu/gems-gemology

Mozambique Ruby Mining Insights (Report) - https://www.gia.edu/mozambique-ruby-report

Wim Vertriest's Profile on LinkedIn - https://www.linkedin.com/in/wimvertriest

Guest links

LinkedIn - https://www.linkedin.com/in/wimvertriest

GIA Profile - https://www.gia.edu/wim-vertriest

gemmology, gemstones, Mozambique rubies, gemstone origin, field gemmology, GIA, gem research, gemstone mining, gemstone identification, gem science

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In this episode of Facet Nation, Simon and Lucinda delve into the fascinating world of gemmology, focusing on the spectroscope and its critical role in identifying gemstones. They discuss the different types of spectroscopes, techniques for using them, and the importance of diagnostic spectra in gem identification. The conversation is rich with insights into the nuances of color absorption and the practical applications of these tools in the field. The hosts also share personal anecdotes and tips for gem enthusiasts, making the episode both informative and engaging.

Takeaways

The spectroscope is essential for identifying gemstones.

There are two main types of handheld spectroscopes: prism and diffraction grating.

Using a spectroscope can help you understand how gemstones absorb light.

Techniques for using a spectroscope include transmitted and reflected light methods.

Diagnostic spectra are crucial for identifying specific gemstones.

Understanding colour absorption helps in gem identification.

The spectroscope can be used on both rough and polished stones.

Learning the diagnostic spectra of gemstones is beneficial for gemmologists.

The conversation emphasises the importance of practical experience in gemmology.

Future episodes will cover more advanced topics in gemmology.

"We're going to talk about the spectroscope."

"It's a really good one."

"You can't see it, but it's there."

Chapters

00:00 Introduction to Gemmology and Recent Finds

02:06 Exploring the Spectroscope: A Gemmologist's Tool

11:16 Understanding Dispersion and Diffraction in Gemstones

18:39 Techniques for Using the Spectroscope

22:31 Diagnostic Spectra and Their Importance

26:53 The Art of Writing and Dashes

29:41 Understanding Spectrums: Zircon and Ruby

32:18 Emerald and Alexandrite Spectrums

35:03 Synthetic and Natural Sapphires

37:28 Exploring Iron Spectrums in Gemstones

40:03 The Spectrum of Garnets and Jadeite

42:42 Cobalt Spectrums: Spinel and Glass

45:31 Rare Earth Elements and Red Glass

47:59 Diamonds and Their Unique Spectra

gemmology, spectroscope, gemstones, diagnostic spectra, colour absorption, gem identification, gemmology techniques, gem enthusiasts, gem collectors, gemstone analysis, gemology

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In this episode of the Facet nation gemmology podcast, Lucinda and Simon explore the intricate world of colour in gemstones. They discuss the significance of colour in determining the value of gemstones, the science of light and how it interacts with materials to create colour, and the chemical elements responsible for these hues. The conversation also covers the colour wheel and its relevance to gemstones, the methods of analysing gemstones through spectroscopy, and the perception of colour. The episode concludes with a teaser for future discussions on more complex topics related to colour in gemmology.

Takeaways

Colour is the most important aspect of coloured gemstones.

The value of gemstones is influenced by colour, history, and trends.

Light is essential for colour perception in gemstones.

Selective absorption determines the colour we see in gemstones.

Eight chemical elements are responsible for colour in gemstones.

The colour wheel helps understand colour relationships in gemstones.

Not all light sources are suitable for gemstone analysis.

Spectroscopy is a key tool in analysing gemstone colours.

Understanding the science of colour enhances appreciation for gemstones.

Future episodes will explore more complex topics in gemmology.

Titles

Exploring the Colour Spectrum of Gemstones

The Science Behind Gemstone Colours

Sound bites

"Everything comes back to light."

"Not all white light is created equal."

"If there is no light, does colour exist?"

Chapters

00:00 Introduction to Colour in Gemmology

01:50 The Importance of Colour in Gemstones

04:34 Understanding Light and Colour

09:11 Chemical Elements and Colour

12:29 The Colour Wheel and Its Application

16:15 Spectroscopy and Light Sources

21:16 Conclusion and Future Topics

gemstones, colour, light, spectroscopy, chemical elements, colour wheel, gemmology, ruby, sapphire, emerald

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In this episode of Facet Nation, hosts Lucinda and Simon welcome gem cutter Justin K Prim, who shares his fascinating journey from music to gemmology. Justin discusses his experiences in the gem trade, the art and science of gem cutting, and the importance of community in the field. He also delves into his favorite gemstones, the challenges of the trade, and his exciting new projects, including a gem cutting school and a museum showcasing his extensive collection of machines and books.

Find out more:
https://www.magusgems.com
https://www.facetingapprentice.com

Takeaways

Justin transitioned from a career in music to gem cutting.

He discovered the gem trade through a local gem show.

Lapidary clubs play a crucial role in learning gem cutting.

Emeralds are Justin's favourite gemstones to cut.

The gem cutting process requires patience and attention to detail.

Community support is vital for aspiring gem cutters.

Justin emphasises the importance of creativity in gem cutting.

He is excited about his new gem cutting school and museum.

The gem trade is evolving, with a growing appreciation for well-cut stones.

Justin's books aim to educate and inspire future gem cutters.

Titles

From Music to Gemmology: Justin K Prim's Journey

The Art of Gem Cutting with Justin K Prim

Sound bites

"I want to keep cutting."

"I love cutting emeralds."

"It's a mystery."

Chapters

00:00 Introduction to Gemmology and Guest Introduction

01:13 Justin's Journey into Gem Cutting

05:19 Discovering the Gem Trade

09:06 The Evolution of Gem Cutting Community

11:45 Getting Started in Lapidary

14:47 The Art of Gem Cutting

16:18 Moving to Bangkok for Gemmology School

20:20 Building a Career in Gem Cutting

23:07 Life in France and the Gem Business

25:47 The Process of Cutting a Gemstone

27:01 The Art of Preforming and Cutting Gems

29:54 Polishing and Final Touches in Gem Cutting

31:54 Exploring Different Faceting Techniques

33:43 The Journey of Learning and Experimentation

36:30 Building a Gem Cutting School and Museum

38:15 The Passion Behind Gem Cutting and Teaching

42:29 The Evolution of Gem Cutting Techniques

47:32 Historical Insights into Gem Cutting

52:36 The Importance of Quality in Gemstones

54:57 Understanding Coloured Stones vs. Diamonds

56:28 The Journey of a Gemstone Buyer

58:53 Emotional Connections in Jewellery Making

01:04:48 The Art of Cutting Gemstones

01:06:23 Future Plans and Collaborations

gemmology, gem cutting, gemstones, lapidary, gem trade, gem cutter, gem education, gem collection, gem stories, gem enthusiasts, books, gem history, museum

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In this episode of Facet Nation, hosts Lucinda and Simon interview Jeff Hapeman, owner of Earth's Treasury, who shares his unique journey from academia to the gem industry. Jeff discusses the fascinating world of Montana sapphires, the challenges and opportunities within the gem market, and the importance of ethical sourcing and cutting techniques. The conversation highlights the growing popularity of coloured stones and the evolving consumer preferences in jewellery design. In this engaging conversation, Jeff Hapeman discusses the intricacies of gem cutting, the inspirations behind his jewellery designs, and the fascinating world of photomicrography. He shares insights into the judging process for the Gem-A Photographer of the Year and reflects on his experiences with Montana sapphires, emphasising the beauty and uniqueness of gemstones.

Takeaways

Jeff transitioned from academia to gemmology after realising academia wasn't for him.

Earth's Treasury focuses on American gemstones, particularly Montana sapphires.

Montana sapphires offer a unique variety of colours and qualities.

The gem industry faces challenges with sourcing and environmental regulations.

Jeff emphasises the importance of ethical sourcing in the gem market.

The rise of coloured stones reflects changing consumer preferences.

Gem cutting techniques can significantly affect the appearance of stones.

There is a growing awareness of the importance of quality cutting in coloured stones.

Jeff believes that coloured stones are becoming more popular among younger generations.

The future of gemmuology will likely see continued growth in the colored stone market. The pavilion angle needs to be steeper for optimal performance.

Jewellery is bespoke and designed specifically for each stone.

Sphene is a captivating gem with unique dispersion.

The Garnet Supernova necklace was inspired by a collector's love for Art Deco.

Colour is a key element in trendy jewellery designs.

Photomicrography reveals the intricate beauty of gemstones.

Judging photography involves assessing technical skill and aesthetic appeal.

Montana sapphires are mined in limited quantities, often yielding smaller stones.

Patience and persistence are essential in gemstone photography.

The journey of a gemstone from rough to finished piece is a labor of love.

Titles

The Art of Gem Cutting: Insights from Jeff Hapeman

Design Inspirations: Crafting Unique Jewellery

Sound bites

"I try to minimise the waste."

"They look awesome."

"I love all gems equally."

Chapters

00:00 Introduction to Gemmology and Guest Introduction

03:24 Jeff Hapeman's Unique Journey into Gemmology

08:41 The Birth of Earth's Treasury and Business Evolution

12:14 Montana Sapphires: A Gemstone Revolution

19:55 The Appeal of Coloured Stones in Modern Jewellery

23:29 The Future of Diamonds and Coloured Gemstones

27:41 Exploring Unique Garnets and Tourmalines

29:02 Innovative Cuts for Montana Sapphires

31:35 The Art of Precision Cutting

33:30 Designing Jewellery with Timeless Inspiration

37:50 Creating Signature Jewellery Designs

42:38 The World of Photomicrography

47:41 Judging the GemA Photographer of the Year

49:26 The Art of Inclusion Photography

52:06 Patience in Photography and Nature

53:24 Experiences in the UK and Gemmology

56:14 Self-Publishing and the Journey of a Book

58:11 The Reality of Sapphire Mining

gemmology, Montana sapphires, Jeff Hapeman, Earth's Treasury, gem cutting, coloured stones, jewellery design, gem industry, gem trends, American gemstones, gem cutting, jewelry design, photomicrography, gemstone