962: Fruit Trees in the Low Desert or really anywhere for that matter!
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A Rosie On The House Replay
In this episode we explore the concept of wicking bed gardens, hosted by Romey Romero & Farmer Greg, our guest is .
Farmer Greg joins Romey Romero on Rosie on the House to break down how to successfully grow fruit trees in the low desert, even during unusually warm winters. He explains why fruit trees are worth planting, how climate confusion affects citrus and deciduous trees, and the most common mistakes that kill young trees. The conversation covers proven planting methods, soil preparation, watering strategies, and long-term thinking for orchards that can produce for decades. This episode is a practical, experience-based guide for homeowners who want reliable fruit harvests in desert climates.
Key Topics & Entities
- Low desert fruit tree growing
- Citrus varieties (navel, Cara Cara, Trovita, Minneola, Gold Nugget)
- Deciduous fruit trees (apple, peach, apricot, plum, jujube, mulberry)
- Low-chill requirements
- Rootstock selection
- Bare root trees
- Urban Farm Fruit Tree Program
- Six-Six Basin Rule
- Desert soil organic matter
- Mycorrhizae and soil biology
- Irrigation and deep watering
- Mulch and microclimates
Key Questions Answered
Why plant fruit trees instead of relying on store-bought fruit?
Homegrown fruit has superior flavor, freshness, and nutritional value, and a single tree can produce for decades with proper care.
What makes fruit trees struggle during warm winters in the desert?
Low-chill trees may not receive enough cold hours to set fruit consistently, causing irregular growth, dormancy confusion, or skipped production years. Therefore, we need to make sure we plant low chill fruit trees.
What are the three non-negotiables when buying fruit trees for the low desert?
Choose low-chill varieties, ensure the correct rootstock for desert conditions, and select soft-flesh fruit that ripens before July 1.
What are the most common ways people accidentally kill fruit trees?
Planting in hot microclimates, allowing grass to compete with roots, and relying on shallow daily drip irrigation.
How should fruit trees actually be watered in the desert?
Deep, infrequent watering—about once a month in winter and every 10–14 days in summer—allowing soil to dry between waterings.
Why are bare root trees preferred for deciduous fruit?
They’re planted while dormant, establish faster, and adapt better long-term than potted trees when planted correctly.
How long does it take for a fruit tree to really produce?
Year one focuses on roots, year two on shoots, year three begins fruiting, and years four to five bring full production.
Episode Highlights
- Fruit trees thrive when planted for climate, not convenience
- Citrus can be harvested across six months with smart variety selection
- The Six-Six Basin Rule dramatically improves survival and growth
- Desert soil must be rebuilt with organic matter and biology
- Overwatering and under watering look the same—but both can kill trees
- Bare root planting in January sets trees up for lifelong success
- A single well-planted tree can produce for 50–100 years
Calls to Action & Resources
- Urban Farm Fruit Tree Program — https://www.fruittrees.org
- Free Desert Fruit Tree Master Course — https://www.fruittrees.org
- Questions or tree photos...