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Surf Is Where You Find It
- Narrated by: Danny Campbell
- Length: 12 hrs and 28 mins
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Surf Is Where You Find It
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Publisher's summary
Written by one of the most revered surfers of his generation, Gerry Lopez's Surf Is Where You Find It is a collection of stories about a lifetime of surfing. But more than that, it is a collection of stories about the lessons learned from surfing. It presents 38 stories about those who have been influential in the sport - surfing anytime, anywhere, and in any way. Lopez, an innovator in stand up paddle (one of the fastest growing water sports in the world), now shares his stories about pioneering that sport. Written with Gerry's unique voice, this audiobook is a classic for surf enthusiasts everywhere.
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Hound of the Sea
- Wild Man. Wild Waves. Wild Wisdom.
- By: Garrett McNamara, Karen Karbo
- Narrated by: Rudy Sanda
- Length: 8 hrs and 27 mins
- Unabridged
-
Overall4.5 out of 5 stars 92
-
Performance4.5 out of 5 stars 77
-
Story4.5 out of 5 stars 77
Big-wave surfer Garrett McNamara set the world record for the sport, surfing a 78-foot wave in Nazare, Portugal, in 2011, a record he smashed two years later at the same break. Propelled by the challenge and promise of bigger, more difficult waves, this adrenaline-fueled loner and polarizing figure travels the globe to ride the most dangerous swells the oceans have to offer, from calving glaciers to hurricane swells. But what motivates McNamara to go to such extremes - to risk everything for one thrilling ride?
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5 out of 5 stars
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Awesome Story and Narration.
- By oregonlife on 10-16-18
By: Garrett McNamara, and others
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Amazon Woman
- Facing Fears, Chasing Dreams, and My Quest to Kayak the Largest River from Source to Sea
- By: Darcy Gaechter
- Narrated by: Laura Jennings
- Length: 8 hrs and 55 mins
- Unabridged
-
Overall4.5 out of 5 stars 86
-
Performance4.5 out of 5 stars 72
-
Story4.5 out of 5 stars 73
This 148-day journey began on Darcy Gaechter’s 35th birthday. She sold her successful outdoor adventure business, upsetting her partner and boyfriend of 12 years and getting them both fired in the process. The emotional waters that would fester and erupt on the ensuing journey were often more challenging to navigate than the mighty river itself. With blistering lips and irradiated fingernails, Darcy would tackle raging Class Five whitewater for 25 days straight, barely surviving a dynamite-filled canyon being prepared for a new hydroelectric plant.
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5 out of 5 stars
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More than just an adventure book...
- By Scott Shepherd on 04-19-20
By: Darcy Gaechter
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Making Mavericks
- The Memoir of a Surfing Legend
- By: Frosty Hesson, Ian Spiegelman
- Narrated by: Gary Dikeos
- Length: 7 hrs and 45 mins
- Unabridged
-
Overall4.5 out of 5 stars 72
-
Performance3.5 out of 5 stars 63
-
Story4.5 out of 5 stars 63
When Richard “Frosty” Hesson was first approached by a young Jay Moriarty in 1990, the skinny kid with a sparkle in his eye only wanted one thing from the icon: His help in becoming a better surfer. Hesson, one of the first to conquer the huge waves off northern California known as Mavericks, recognized that the kid “had a vision.” Jay quickly demonstrated a resolve that reminded Frosty of his younger self, pursuing his goal with a seriousness far beyond his years. His attitude and work ethic earned Frosty’s respect and, eventually, his friendship.
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2 out of 5 stars
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Worst audiobook I’ve listened to - narrated by a pre-pubescent teenage robot
- By Nick on 04-26-18
By: Frosty Hesson, and others
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To Dakar and Back
- 21 Days Across North Africa by Motorcycle
- By: Lawrence Hacking, Wil De Clercq
- Narrated by: Mike Chamberlain
- Length: 11 hrs and 39 mins
- Unabridged
-
Overall4.5 out of 5 stars 138
-
Performance4.5 out of 5 stars 123
-
Story4.5 out of 5 stars 123
Recounting the three weeks of blood, sweat, and tearsthat make up a 7,000 mile journey from the glitzy streets of Paris to the hinterland of northwestern Africa, this incredible tale highlights the most arduous and notorious off-road motorsports event on the planet, the Paris-Dakar Rally. Since its inception in 1979, the rally has attracted more than 3,000 participants from all walks of life.
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4 out of 5 stars
-
Great tale, not great narration
- By Catherine Perkins on 07-12-16
By: Lawrence Hacking, and others
-
Life Lived Wild
- Adventures at the Edge of the Map (Patagonia)
- By: Rick Ridgeway
- Narrated by: Rick Ridgeway
- Length: 12 hrs and 10 mins
- Unabridged
-
Overall5 out of 5 stars 328
-
Performance4.5 out of 5 stars 296
-
Story5 out of 5 stars 294
At the beginning of his memoir Life Lived Wild: Adventures at the Edge of the Map, Rick Ridgeway tells us that if you add up all his many expeditions, he’s spent over five years of his life sleeping in tents: “And most of that in small tents pitched in the world’s most remote regions.” It’s not a boast so much as an explanation. Whether at elevation or raising a family back at sea level, those years taught him, he writes, “to distinguish matters of consequence from matters of inconsequence.” He leaves it to his listeners to do the final sort of which is which.
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1 out of 5 stars
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The hypocrisy and boasting ego. Blood boiling.
- By Amazon Customer on 12-30-21
By: Rick Ridgeway
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The Art of Shralpinism
- Lessons from the Mountains
- By: Jeremy Jones
- Narrated by: Gary Tiedemann
- Length: 11 hrs and 9 mins
- Unabridged
-
Overall4.5 out of 5 stars 38
-
Performance4.5 out of 5 stars 34
-
Story4.5 out of 5 stars 35
Not a technical guide on snowboarding but, rather, a very personal approach to how to think about mountains, snow, and adventure, The Art of Shralpinism reflects the remarkable journey of snowboarding superstar Jeremy Jones. Drawing on the hundreds of journals he has kept over the years, Jones offers intriguing snapshots of time and place that include his own on-the-slope stories and white-out moments, as well as those of other prominent adventurers such as Jimmy Chin, Zahan Billimoria, and Christina Lusti.
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5 out of 5 stars
-
A must for any snowboarder
- By Anonymous User on 04-22-23
By: Jeremy Jones
-
All Fishermen Are Liars
- By: John Gierach
- Narrated by: Mike Chamberlain
- Length: 6 hrs and 57 mins
- Unabridged
-
Overall4.5 out of 5 stars 193
-
Performance4.5 out of 5 stars 158
-
Story4.5 out of 5 stars 158
In All Fishermen Are Liars, Gierach travels around North America seeking out quintessential fishing experiences, whether it's at a busy stream or a secluded lake hidden amid snow-capped mountains. He talks about the art of fly-tying and the quest for the perfect steelhead fly ("The Nuclear Option"), about fishing in the Presidential Pools previously fished by the elder George Bush, and the importance of traveling with like-minded companions when caught in a soaking rain.
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5 out of 5 stars
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One Of My Favorite Authors!!!
- By Travis on 03-31-18
By: John Gierach
-
Shipwrecked
- By: Mishka Shubaly
- Narrated by: Mishka Shubaly
- Length: 1 hr and 5 mins
- Unabridged
-
Overall4.5 out of 5 stars 43
-
Performance4.5 out of 5 stars 38
-
Story4 out of 5 stars 38
In the Year of the Shark, a chance encounter between a ne'er-do-well writer and a tropical storm left him marooned on the deserted end of a Caribbean island and charged with the rescue of his four shipmates. There, Mishka Shubaly learned some valuable life lessons - among them that in the absence of whiskey, wine, and water, urine will get the job done.
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5 out of 5 stars
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Great juxtaposition of two life changing stories
- By Andy on 07-11-16
By: Mishka Shubaly
-
One Breath
- Freediving, Death, and the Quest to Shatter Human Limits
- By: Adam Skolnick
- Narrated by: Paul Boehmer
- Length: 12 hrs and 13 mins
- Unabridged
-
Overall4.5 out of 5 stars 101
-
Performance4 out of 5 stars 88
-
Story4 out of 5 stars 88
One Breath is a gripping and powerful exploration of the strange and fascinating sport of freediving, and of the tragic, untimely death of America's greatest freediver Competitive freediving - a sport built on diving as deep as possible on a single breath - tests the limits of human ability in the most hostile environment on earth.
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1 out of 5 stars
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It just drags
- By Jesse Mecham on 06-17-16
By: Adam Skolnick
-
Boone
- A Deep Series Prequel (The Deep Series)
- By: Nick Sullivan
- Narrated by: Nick Sullivan
- Length: 6 hrs and 50 mins
- Unabridged
-
Overall4.5 out of 5 stars 26
-
Performance5 out of 5 stars 24
-
Story4.5 out of 5 stars 24
It's a long way from the hills of East Tennessee to the arid islands of the Dutch Caribbean. From the author of the best-selling Deep Series, Boone is a brand-new prequel that follows Boone Fischer in his early years. His passions, his challenges, and the fascinating people he meets along the way... all are parts of the journey that will shape the man he will become, and lead him to the life of a divemaster in Curaçao and Bonaire.
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5 out of 5 stars
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Boone’s Origins: A Dive into Adventure and Emotion
- By Trav on 09-28-24
By: Nick Sullivan
-
Into the Deep
- A Memoir from the Man Who Found Titanic
- By: Robert D. Ballard, Christopher Drew
- Narrated by: Scott Brick
- Length: 9 hrs and 45 mins
- Unabridged
-
Overall4.5 out of 5 stars 174
-
Performance5 out of 5 stars 151
-
Story4.5 out of 5 stars 151
The legendary explorer of the Titanic shares inside stories of danger, suspense, and discovery - plus previously untold stories about his own dyslexia and how it has shaped his life.
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3 out of 5 stars
-
A Study of the Ego
- By Thomas on 06-08-21
By: Robert D. Ballard, and others
-
Forty Signs of Rain
- Science in the Capital, Book 1
- By: Kim Stanley Robinson
- Narrated by: Peter Ganim, Kim Stanley Robinson
- Length: 12 hrs and 55 mins
- Unabridged
-
Overall4 out of 5 stars 256
-
Performance3.5 out of 5 stars 191
-
Story4 out of 5 stars 191
The best-selling author of the classic Mars trilogy and The Years of Rice and Salt returns with a riveting new trilogy of cutting-edge science, international politics, and the real-life ramifications of global warming as they are played out in our nation's capital - and in the daily lives of those at the center of the action. Hauntingly realistic, here is a novel of the near future that is inspired by scientific facts already making headlines. BONUS AUDIO: Includes an exclusive introduction by author Kim Stanley Robinson.
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2 out of 5 stars
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Its all
- By steve on 01-07-09
-
Stop Drifting, Start Rowing
- One Woman's Search for Happiness and Meaning Alone on the Pacific
- By: Roz Savage
- Narrated by: Roz Savage
- Length: 7 hrs and 50 mins
- Unabridged
-
Overall4 out of 5 stars 193
-
Performance4 out of 5 stars 177
-
Story4 out of 5 stars 172
In 2007, Roz Savage set out to row 8,000 miles across the Pacific Ocean—alone. Despite having successfully rowed across the Atlantic the previous year, the Pacific presented the former office worker with unprecedented challenges and overpowering currents—both in the water and within herself. Crossing Earth’s largest ocean alone might seem a long way removed from everyday life, yet the lessons Roz learned about the inner journey, the ocean, and the world are relevant to all of us.
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2 out of 5 stars
-
I only listened to 1/3, so maybe it gets better?
- By Brandin on 05-14-14
By: Roz Savage
-
Black Wave
- A Family's Adventure at Sea and the Disaster That Saved Them
- By: John Silverwood, Jean Silverwood
- Narrated by: Carrington MacDuffie, Joe Barrett
- Length: 7 hrs and 29 mins
- Unabridged
-
Overall4 out of 5 stars 71
-
Performance4 out of 5 stars 38
-
Story4.5 out of 5 stars 37
When John and Jean Silverwood, both experienced sailors, decided to give their four children a taste of life on the high seas, they hoped the trip would offer important learning experiences - not only about the natural world but about the beauty of human life stripped down to its essence, far from civilization. But the adventure that awaited them would surpass anything they could have imagined.
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1 out of 5 stars
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What Wave
- By James on 09-03-08
By: John Silverwood, and others
-
Never Give Up
- By: Bear Grylls
- Narrated by: Tom Stevens
- Length: 8 hrs and 35 mins
- Unabridged
-
Overall4.5 out of 5 stars 96
-
Performance4.5 out of 5 stars 82
-
Story4.5 out of 5 stars 82
Admired by millions as the star of Man vs. Wild and the acclaimed NGC series Running Wild, global adventurer Bear Grylls has explored places few would dare to go. Now, he shares time-honored lessons for leading an adventurous life through stories drawn from his personal experiences, as well as encounters with a diverse group of celebrities who have participated in his wildly popular television shows.
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5 out of 5 stars
-
Great Family Road Trip
- By MFairbanks on 08-01-22
By: Bear Grylls
-
Soul Surfer
- A True Story of Faith, Family, and Fighting to Get Back on the Board
- By: Bethany Hamilton
- Narrated by: Eleni Pappageorge
- Length: 3 hrs and 52 mins
- Unabridged
-
Overall4.5 out of 5 stars 282
-
Performance4.5 out of 5 stars 220
-
Story4.5 out of 5 stars 223
She lost her arm in a shark attack and nearly died, but she never lost her faith. Now a major motion picture, Soul Surfer is the moving story of Bethany Hamilton’s triumphant return to competitive surfing and has continued to be a beacon of inspiration to all who hear it. They say Bethany Hamilton has saltwater in her veins. How else could one explain the passion that drives her to surf? Or that nothing - not even the loss of her arm - could come between her and the waves?
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5 out of 5 stars
-
Totally absorbing.
- By Ms. Carrie S. Rostollan on 06-18-14
By: Bethany Hamilton
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Pulitzer Prize, Biography, 2016. Barbarian Days is William Finnegan's memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life.
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Liferider
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Millions of us increasingly seek happiness in fads and self-help books, reaching upward every day toward some enlightened state that we wish to attain. Surfing icon Laird Hamilton is more intent on looking inward and appreciating the brilliant creatures we already are. In Liferider, Laird uses five key pillars - Death & Fear, Heart, Body, Soul, and Everything Is Connected - to illustrate his unique worldview and life practices. This is Laird Hamilton in his own words - raw, honest, and unvarnished - on topics he has rarely explored before.
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3 out of 5 stars
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Nothing Earth Shattering
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Let My People Go Surfing
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In his long-awaited memoir, Yvon Chouinard - legendary climber, businessman, environmentalist, and founder of Patagonia, Inc. - shares the persistence and courage that have gone into being head of one of the most respected and environmentally responsible companies on earth. From his youth as the son of a French Canadian blacksmith to the thrilling, ambitious climbing expeditions that inspired his innovative designs for the sport's equipment.
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3 out of 5 stars
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Good presentation, though a little preachy
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By: Yvon Chouinard, and others
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The History of Surfing
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Overall4.5 out of 5 stars 5
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Performance5 out of 5 stars 4
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Story4.5 out of 5 stars 4
Matt Warshaw knows more about surfing than any other person on the planet. After five years of research and writing, Warshaw, a former professional surfer and editor of Surfing magazine, has crafted an unprecedented, definitive history of the sport and the culture it has spawned. The History of Surfing reveals and defines this sport with a voice that is authoritative, funny, and wholly original.
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Kook
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Overall4 out of 5 stars 92
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Performance4 out of 5 stars 76
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Story4 out of 5 stars 76
Having resolved to master a big - hollow wave - that is, to go from kook (surfese for beginner) to shredder-in a single year, Heller travels from Southern California down the coast of Mexico in the company of his girlfriend and the eccentric surfers they meet. Exuberant and fearless, Heller explores the technique and science of surfing the secrets of its culture, and the environmental ravages to the stunning coastline he visits.
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1 out of 5 stars
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Narrator....
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Barbarian Days
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Overall4.5 out of 5 stars 4,512
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Performance4.5 out of 5 stars 4,037
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Story4.5 out of 5 stars 4,020
Pulitzer Prize, Biography, 2016. Barbarian Days is William Finnegan's memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life.
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2 out of 5 stars
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What a Jerk.
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Pipe Dreams
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Eleven-time world surfing champion, actor, and American heartthrob Kelly Slater tells his inspiring story of triumph over adversity. From Beach Blanket Bingo to Baywatch to Blue Crush, surfing has fascinated people for years, and Kelly Slater is the sport’s hottest star. He has won more world championships than any other competitor, and he continues to change peoples’ minds about what can and can’t be done on a surfboard.
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2 out of 5 stars
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Liferider
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Performance4.5 out of 5 stars 180
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Millions of us increasingly seek happiness in fads and self-help books, reaching upward every day toward some enlightened state that we wish to attain. Surfing icon Laird Hamilton is more intent on looking inward and appreciating the brilliant creatures we already are. In Liferider, Laird uses five key pillars - Death & Fear, Heart, Body, Soul, and Everything Is Connected - to illustrate his unique worldview and life practices. This is Laird Hamilton in his own words - raw, honest, and unvarnished - on topics he has rarely explored before.
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3 out of 5 stars
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Nothing Earth Shattering
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By: Laird Hamilton, and others
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Let My People Go Surfing
- The Education of a Reluctant Businessman - Including 10 More Years of Business Unusual
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- Narrated by: Christopher Grove, Yvon Chouinard
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Overall4.5 out of 5 stars 2,706
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Performance4.5 out of 5 stars 2,289
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In his long-awaited memoir, Yvon Chouinard - legendary climber, businessman, environmentalist, and founder of Patagonia, Inc. - shares the persistence and courage that have gone into being head of one of the most respected and environmentally responsible companies on earth. From his youth as the son of a French Canadian blacksmith to the thrilling, ambitious climbing expeditions that inspired his innovative designs for the sport's equipment.
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3 out of 5 stars
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Good presentation, though a little preachy
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The History of Surfing
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Overall4.5 out of 5 stars 5
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Story4.5 out of 5 stars 4
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Kook
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Overall4 out of 5 stars 92
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Performance4 out of 5 stars 76
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Story4 out of 5 stars 76
Having resolved to master a big - hollow wave - that is, to go from kook (surfese for beginner) to shredder-in a single year, Heller travels from Southern California down the coast of Mexico in the company of his girlfriend and the eccentric surfers they meet. Exuberant and fearless, Heller explores the technique and science of surfing the secrets of its culture, and the environmental ravages to the stunning coastline he visits.
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1 out of 5 stars
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Narrator....
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Surf When You Can
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Overall5 out of 5 stars 103
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Performance5 out of 5 stars 92
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Story5 out of 5 stars 92
Amid one of the darkest times in American history, it was a moment that captured the attention of the nation. Brett Crozier, captain of the most powerful and prestigious aircraft carrier in the United States Navy, walked off his ship for the last time while thousands of his sailors saluted and chanted his name in admiration. This remarkable moment occurred after Crozier made the decision to try to protect his sailors by pleading with his superiors for help when COVID-19 swept through the vessel. Two days later, he was relieved of command.
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5 out of 5 stars
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A true Leader
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By: Brett Crozier, and others
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Cocaine + Surfing
- A Sordid History of Surfing's Greatest Love Affair
- By: Chas Smith
- Narrated by: Tom Pile
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- Unabridged
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Overall4 out of 5 stars 182
-
Performance3.5 out of 5 stars 163
-
Story4 out of 5 stars 164
It is likely not terribly surprising that surfers like to party. The 1960-'70s image, bolstered by Tom Wolfe and Big Wednesday, was one of mild outlaws. Tanned boys who refused to grow up, spending their days drinking beer and smoking joints on the beach in between mindless hours in the water. As the surf brands accidentally morphed into a multimillion- then multibillion-dollar industry beginning in the 1980s, however, the derelict portrait began to harm business.
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3 out of 5 stars
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Narrator is a joke caricature of what the public t
- By Kyle Douglas on 01-13-19
By: Chas Smith
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Swell
- A Sailing Surfer's Voyage of Awakening
- By: Liz Clark
- Narrated by: Liz Clark
- Length: 12 hrs and 31 mins
- Unabridged
-
Overall4.5 out of 5 stars 432
-
Performance4.5 out of 5 stars 392
-
Story4.5 out of 5 stars 391
Captain Liz Clark spent her youth dreaming of traveling the world by sailboat and surfing remote waves. When she was 22, she met a mentor who helped turn her desire into reality. Embarking on an adventure that most only fantasize about, she set sail from Santa Barbara, California, as captain of her 40-foot sailboat, Swell, headed south in search of surf, self, and the wonder and learning that lies beyond the unbroken horizon.
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1 out of 5 stars
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such a disapointment
- By Mikel marchant on 01-21-20
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In Search of Captain Zero
- A Surfer's Road Trip Beyond the End of the Road
- By: Allan C. Weisbecker
- Narrated by: Joe Barrett
- Length: 11 hrs and 25 mins
- Unabridged
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Overall4.5 out of 5 stars 311
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Performance4.5 out of 5 stars 273
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Story4.5 out of 5 stars 277
In 1996, Allan Weisbecker sold his home and his possessions, loaded his dog and surfboards into his truck, and set off in search of his longtime friend and surfing companion, Christopher, who had vanished into the depths of Central America. In this rollicking memoir of his quest from Mexico to Costa Rica to unravel the circumstances of Christopher's disappearance, Weisbecker intimately describes the people he befriended, the bandits he evaded, and the waves he caught and lost en route to finding his friend.
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1 out of 5 stars
-
another poser
- By will crow on 02-20-20
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Waterman
- The Life and Times of Duke Kahanamoku
- By: David Davis
- Narrated by: Aaron Killian
- Length: 11 hrs and 13 mins
- Unabridged
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Overall4.5 out of 5 stars 59
-
Performance4.5 out of 5 stars 54
-
Story4.5 out of 5 stars 54
Waterman is the first comprehensive biography of Duke Kahanamoku (1890-1968): swimmer, surfer, Olympic gold medalist, Hawaiian icon, waterman.
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5 out of 5 stars
-
Outstanding
- By Chris on 10-07-18
By: David Davis
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Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell
- A True Story of Violence, Corruption, and the Soul of Surfing
- By: Chas Smith, Joan Jett - foreword
- Narrated by: Chas Smith
- Length: 7 hrs and 12 mins
- Unabridged
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Overall4.5 out of 5 stars 116
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Performance4.5 out of 5 stars 101
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Story4.5 out of 5 stars 101
Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell is surfer and former war reporter Chas Smith's wild and unflinching look at the high-stakes world of surfing on Oahu's North Shore - a riveting, often humorous, account of beauty, greed, danger, and crime. For two months every winter, when Pacific storms make landfall, swarms of mainlanders, Brazilians, Australians, and Europeans flock to Oahu's paradisiacal North Shore for surfing's Triple Crown competition. Smith reveals how this influx transforms a sleepy strip of coast into a lawless, violent, drug-addled, and adrenaline-soaked mecca.
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5 out of 5 stars
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Chas Smith is a jerk, but he writes well
- By Kevin Degnan on 12-15-22
By: Chas Smith, and others
What listeners say about Surf Is Where You Find It
Average customer ratingsReviews - Please select the tabs below to change the source of reviews.
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Overall5 out of 5 stars
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Performance5 out of 5 stars
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- d
- 05-02-23
Very thorough account of surf over the decades.
i lived on Oahu, in the late 70s, when Gerry Lopez was THE name in surfing. i frequented Sunset & Waimea. so would see the Pipes surfers a lot.
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Overall5 out of 5 stars
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Story5 out of 5 stars
- Amazon Customer
- 10-09-17
Wonderful Surf Stories
Great stories told by a great story teller. Lopez's humour shines through wrapped in a large dollop of surf wisdom.
You don't need to be a surfer to enjoy it, but if you are, you'll find yourself nodding and smiling as you appreciate that even the greatest go through the same emotions in the water as the rest of us.
I loved it!
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Overall5 out of 5 stars
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Story5 out of 5 stars
- John Sarno dba JSA
- 10-18-23
Fun stories
Good reading and the surf material is excellent
I need 7 more words to finish
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Overall4 out of 5 stars
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Performance4 out of 5 stars
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Story4 out of 5 stars
- Shukin
- 07-07-17
Mr. Pipeline talks story 🤙🏽
I absolutely loved listening to this audiobook, especially hearing Gerry mention people I know and surf spots I'm familiar with.
Anyone who surfs, has an interest in surfing or is looking for inspiration will enjoy this book.
Aloha
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Overall5 out of 5 stars
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- Anonymous User
- 07-09-20
Feel like I'm a better surfer now.
Gerry Lopez takes you through it all, from his childhood to the scariest moments he's experienced surfing.
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Overall5 out of 5 stars
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Performance3 out of 5 stars
- Anonymous User
- 09-11-20
🤙🤙🤙🤙
this book needed to be read by someone who spoke pigeon.
If no can no can if can can...
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Overall5 out of 5 stars
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- thomas a. rowden
- 03-30-24
memories!
Though out the book were experiences and echos of heros way over there. My friends and I would , through films and magazines, replenish our stoke and go play in the water . Thank you Gerry and friends!
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Overall5 out of 5 stars
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- Futureman
- 10-26-19
Inspiring for lifetime soul sufers
overall the book is fantastic. if you're a surfer you know who Jerry Lopez is this is absolutely worth the read. the narrator is okay he does a decent job it's not over-the-top it's not really exciting but he gets the job done. if you're a surfer this is a must-read there's so much more here than just stories about surfing pipeline. Gerry Lopez is a fine human being I had the pleasure of talking to him on the phone one time it was amazing. just get this book it'll change your life in a positive way
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2 people found this helpful
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Overall5 out of 5 stars
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- Dirk
- 03-07-19
Slow start but a great book, worth the read!
The book started off slow for me, I had the restart it three times, but I'm glad I did.
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Overall4 out of 5 stars
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- Caprice Contreras
- 04-17-20
Surfing the 70s
Being I grew up surfing in the early 70s I could relate to many of of the stories and experiences that were expressed..along with the technical advancement of the equipment during that period
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2 people found this helpful