This is an immensely entertaining and gripping book. I loved hearing the stories, learning the small amount of science, and feeling the awe of the author. But the narrator! So bad. The problem is that she has no, zero, idea what Laird Hamilton and his crew sound like. I've only seen Step Into Liquid, but I know that these guys sound nothing like the chill surfer dudes the narrator lazily chose to characterize them as. Every time she related their dialogue I cringed at her generalized dude voice. Do note that the book is largely about these surfers and not much about anything else. As enthralled as I was with the surf stories, I wanted more science and more history. Ah well.
That the writing is old Allen is good- he was hilarious. But the stories are read by the old, as in aged, Allen. He has lost the energy and spark and sounds very tired. What a shame. Get the books instead.
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