I learned more than I ever wanted to know about surfing and I didn't finish the book. Kudos to the promoters of this book as it caught my attention but couldn't keep my attention. Oh well you win some you lose some. Worth losing
Susan Casey's enthusiasm for her subject carries you along. Using big-wave surfers to link interesting historical material and climate science is effective. Particularly liked the visit to Lloyds of London. Good, solid reporting with an eye for telling details.
From every perspective, this is a fantastic book. It is a non-fictional book, with the interest and fun of a fictional one. The narrator has a authorative voice for the non-fiction aspect and a authentic voice for the accents she gives the stories real life characters: everyone from the marine scientists, to the Lloyds of London insurance agents and to the surfers that have ridden these previously unconfirmed giant rogue ocean waves. Instantly became one of my favorite books. I highly recommend it to everyone, with and without a science education or background.
Entirely too much surfer-worship. Way too much. Childish man-children, unable to converse in a dialect other than teenager slang. "Braa"? Seriously . . . these are men in their 40's. Please. One gets the impression that conversations and interviews quickly turn into performances staged for the author.
Even the simple science is questionable. " . . knots per hour . . "? The amount of time to fall 120 feet is not 4 seconds, and is not accomplished at 32 feet-per-second. This is the simple stuff, and is fraught with error. On second thought, maybe it's a good thing wave science was avoided . . . . .
I guess the topic itself it a tough one to cover, but this mix of a little science and a lot of surfer worship just never got under my skin the way "Born To Run" did. The narrator's style wasn't my favorite either; her management of Spanish words and translations in particular made my teeth hurt.
i bought this under the impression it was about waves. no its about bodies carved from granite, flashing smiles etc. etc.
no bland cliche about surfers is left unsaid. every dreary conversation recorded "that was real", "real gnarly". "his phone rang in the next room" with no sequitor.
unfortunately no conversation of any interest was included. maybe the editor was unable to deal with polysyllabic dialogue.
this book has been written to be read with a clanging 140db soundtrack of thrash metal playing in the background and immediately forgotten.
Then meet "The Wave." Another sports-related book that looks at the science, economics and personalities around big wave surfing. You come away feeling all-around smarter about the ocean, more fired up about surfing and inspired by these wave-riding cowboys who push their bodies and mankind to the limits.
Great description of the science and recreation of big waves. However, never have I heard so many Hawaiian words pronounced so badly by the narrator. Kirsten Potter could have saved herself considerable embarrassment if only she had spent five minutes running the names of local venues past even the most minimally informed Hawaiian tourist.
This sounded interesting however Audible will not let me download it after purchase. I am not sure what is wrong - but I am not happy.
Okay so it is not chock full of science, but it is scientific enough for someone who had a few geology classes in college to be reacquainted with familiar terms and events. The book also follows some interesting surfers and their experiences riding giant waves. Personally I thought it was a nice mix of people and science. For any geology teachers out there, this book has extra credit written all over it.