From the Acclaimed New Yorker Writer.
Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a way of life. William Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world. A bookish boy and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Throughout, he surfs, carrying listeners with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity.